Re doing fuel system

[BERT]

Hi everyone, I'm in the process of re doing the fuel system in the drag nova, I've got a BG400-2 pump and fuel cell in the trunk and I'm planing to run -10 line to the engine where I want to install a magna fuel 2 port regulator. The carb feeds will be -6 to each bowl from the regulator. I want to get the regulator as close to the carb as possible, I plan on using the Jegs billet bracket that mounts to the carb studs. If anyone is using this bracket with the magnafuel regulator on a SB chevy with tall valve covers and a Dart single plane manifold or has tried this setup please let me know if it clears the valve covers or not. I am open to sugestions and opinions on which regulator to use, If it is better to run a bypass fuel regulator and return line to the cell (right now the bypass is off of the pump back to the fuel cell), and location of the fuel regulator. Any input would be appreciated.
the car has a 414ci,
The car has run 10.38 at 117mph in the quarter on a test pass using the foot brake and letting off throtle before 1000 foot mark. The suspension is not sorted yet so I have yet to get a real pass (it blows the tires off on the transbrake). The car will probably run a low 10 .

[Trmnatr]

Hi everyone, I'm in the process of re doing the fuel system in the drag nova, I've got a BG400-2 pump and fuel cell in the trunk and I'm planing to run -10 line to the engine where I want to install a magna fuel 2 port regulator. The carb feeds will be -6 to each bowl from the regulator. I want to get the regulator as close to the carb as possible, I plan on using the Jegs billet bracket that mounts to the carb studs. If anyone is using this bracket with the magnafuel regulator on a SB chevy with tall valve covers and a Dart single plane manifold or has tried this setup please let me know if it clears the valve covers or not. I am open to sugestions and opinions on which regulator to use, If it is better to run a bypass fuel regulator and return line to the cell (right now the bypass is off of the pump back to the fuel cell), and location of the fuel regulator. Any input would be appreciated.
the car has a 414ci,
The car has run 10.38 at 117mph in the quarter on a test pass using the foot brake and letting off throtle before 1000 foot mark. The suspension is not sorted yet so I have yet to get a real pass (it blows the tires off on the transbrake). The car will probably run a low 10 .


Your systems sounds great, I would use some rubber gromets inbetween the regulator and bracket to absorb some engine vibration

I have run a BG400 pump for years with the BG two port regulator, I have yet to go to a four port. Thinking about it though

117mph ?

I have a 331cid and have been 7.49 @94.93mph and 11.645 @118.98mph lifting 50' soon in a 3700 pound car

What is your engine combo / car weight/combo ? Runs very well

Friend of mine just got his 406cid engine done in a 3600 pound chevelle and only ran a 1,000' and ran like 10.47 @115mph

Next pass he did a full pass, 10.308 @128.04mph out of a 3600 wagon with low 1.3 60' times

[Awesome Bill]

Any dead head style regulator in my opinion is old school? Why you may ask. In the early 70's and most likely WWI, with mechanical fuel pumps, they run a bypass style. When you put a bypass all the way in the back, usually with a #8 an, and set the pressure @ 25psi, you load the pump. This causes premature wear and drawls more amps. We use the Aeromotive bypass 4 port on all Nitrous engines and even mechanical pump turbos and prochargers. We feel the pump with a 12an and then run #10 to the regulator and run a #10 back with no bypass @ the pump. What the engine needs @ any time it has. It is less of a shock to the regulator when the engine needs more stable fuel. with the bypass in the back with a #8, it has been proven it shocks the fuel. Now this is what one says about the other. But most high end engine builders use bypass sytyle regulators.
The other advantage is cooling. When the bypass in the rear speeds up the fuel, it makes heat. When a 10 up and 10 back the fuel has time to release heat and keep it cooler. Makes a little power. Either way, you don't have enough power to worry about it but it still in my opinion is better to use the bypass style for these reasons. Any time fuel pressure is stable, regulator is within 1 ft of the carb, the fuel system will run at its best.

[BERT]

Thanks you guys for the comments,
well the jegs bracket fits on the dominator and looks cool but if you try to connect a -10 full port 90 to the bottom of the regulator your way out of room! even with a drilled -10 fitting I don't think that there would be enough room:mad:
What do you guys think about attaching the fuel regulator to the front of the passenger side head? or is it back to the fender skirt with it? If it was on the front of the PS head the fuel lines would be unequal lengths would that be a problem?
Also I was thinking about tig welding a piece to the jegs bracket to elevate it away from the valve cover but that would position it into the cowl area of the hood. Oh well just thinking out loud on the forum. If you have any Ideas feel free to comment. -Al

[Awesome Bill]

If you do that, the regulator and fuel will now be @ the engines temp all the time. Never mount that on a head unless the bracket is 6" long, this keeps the heat sink down. It is a pain in the but with the #10 but I put the line on before installing it under the carb. Just a little bit of a pain but works. Always keep your regulator with 12" or a foot from the carb. You get less fuel surge with this. You can make your own bracket very easy as we do in the install shop. Al, my shop foreman is very good at bracket making and mounting. Either way, keep the fuel as cool as possible!

[BERT]

Well I did a bolt on to a bolt on but it clears everything!

[gregvega]

Wow this thread has me re-thinking my setup.

[guru]

I got all my brackets and whatnot from these guys
http://www.aedperformance.com/

I live across town so it works out.

[Awesome Bill]

you should, his set up will be 10-20hp down for sure? Now I will see if anyone can figure out why? His mounting bracket is not bad but be careful of vibration causing it to crack? Now go to thinking!

[BERT]

Well Bill enlighten me please???

[Awesome Bill]

what is the #1 enemy of a fuel system and then then the #2, put these together and you have lost 10-20 hp if not more. This is basic fuel system preparation, not brain surgery.

[BERT]

Wow.... want to share?

[underdog]

what is the #1 enemy of a fuel system and then then the #2, put these together and you have lost 10-20 hp if not more. This is basic fuel system preparation, not brain surgery.

I would think heat is one thing but I can't seem to come up with the other unless your talking about volume.

Come on, the suspense is killing me !

I took off my Holley look-a-like fuel pump that was rated for 150 gpm and replaced it with a name brand pump rated at 110 gpm and fixed the problem I was having with my Chevelle you guys were helping me with a while back. Just thought you would like to know.

[BERT]

Well I'm pretty sure one issue may be the regulator and fuel line being exposed to under the hood and over the motor temps. I've seen insulation on some drag car fuel lines under the hood. I'm pretty sure that all door cars have fuel lines and other fuel components exposed to some engine tempeture to some extent. I guess I may never know why I'm down 20 + horse power Or it's just BS???

[Awesome Bill]

I am sorry for not getting back, but you hit the nail on the head. Temp and volume. keep the delievery fuel line covered or out of any heated areas. Keep the Fuel pressure regulator within 1 foot. Volume is the other. We plumbed in steps from front to back. 12 from tank to pump or 10. from out of the pump side to the front it is 10 or 8 if your starting with 10 and using the 3/8 pipe that is standard on smaller pumps. from the regulator to the carb, we use 6. Now you have to remember about the wiring to the pump. This is where everyone goes wrong. You can not run 30 ft of wire and a cheap toggle switch to keep the pump alive. Use a 30 amp relay and use a trigger switch to hit the relay and let the relay carry the load. Use the #10 or 12 main feed line from the battery to the realy. This is why pumps will not flow what they are rated, they don't the amps to drive the pump. You can actually hear the pump pick up when tested with a toggle switch and wire or a relay when swithing them for tested. The pump runs easier with ½ the heat on the armature!