sbc pushrod length with pro1platinum

[johnod]

Before i start tearing thinga apart i'd like to get my materials together, to avoid delays. So here is what I have,a 350 sbc oem roller motor.
I'm putting in a new roller cam hydraulic, 548 lift 236 duratin @.050, on a 108 lobe center. 180cc Pro 1 Plat. head with 64cc chamber, 1.5 roller rockers. Just a low/mid rpm street motor. My question is am I likely to need longer than stock push rods, or new extended travel lifters? If so any recommedations as to whats good?

thanks for any help you can give me.

[lun40119]

You are going to have to wait until you get everything together and mock it up. Its hard to tell what you are going to need. Trend makes a high quality pushrod and is reasonably priced.

[Jamieb]

Try Trend Performance once you have checked for correct pushrod length. They have more pushrods instock than anyone and they are good on price too. They usually ship same day.

[johnod]

I was afraid that was going to be the case..
Can i run the old cam bearings? I'm not planning a complete tear down just the top.

[lun40119]

Depends how they look..........

[JAKEJR266]

When I installed a new pair of Dart LT1 Pro 1s, new custom cam, etc., on my son's 96 Vette last summer, I had the same pushrod length concern. I did exactly what's been recommended; I waited until everything was together, then I used an adjustable pushrod length checking tool to determine the correct length.

As it turned out, his engine called for the stock 7.200" length, but that's no guarantee yours will too. Always best to measure.

Jake

[Osmiumfoot]

I think you only need extended travel lifters with a reduced base circle cam, which you don't have. My guess is your pushrods will dial in at around 7.8 or so depending on your spring installed height and deck dimensions of your heads. If you run lash caps it'll add some to your push rod length. Like the people who actually know are saying, don't guess. Get the heads on and use a pushrod length checking tool to get it right on. You can cover the end of the valve stem with a magic marker, and the roller tip will leave a witness mark about in the middle of the stem to show you when the length is correct when you rotate the engine over by hand. Wow, that is a convoluted sentence. I guess I was just looking for extra letters to use.

[johnod]

Right well I'm ordering the pushrod tool, so that will tell the story, do you have to check all pushrods or just one pair?

[Trmnatr]

Right well I'm ordering the pushrod tool, so that will tell the story, do you have to check all pushrods or just one pair?

I would suggest checking all as the one you dont check will be a problem

[Osmiumfoot]

Whoops, HR would be around 7.2:o

[lun40119]

My wifey has a hydraulic cam. Well so does Butch I guess :D:D:D Butch, we should set up a grudge match.....my wife's boat vs your go cart :D

Im just playin with ya fella, settle down.

[Osmiumfoot]

I have an HR sitting in my garage. Its job is to hold down the shop rags in the event of a stiff breeze. :rolleyes:

[Awesome Bill]

Before i start tearing thinga apart i'd like to get my materials together, to avoid delays. So here is what I have,a 350 sbc oem roller motor.
I'm putting in a new roller cam hydraulic, 548 lift 236 duratin @.050, on a 108 lobe center. 180cc Pro 1 Plat. head with 64cc chamber, 1.5 roller rockers. Just a low/mid rpm street motor. My question is am I likely to need longer than stock push rods, or new extended travel lifters? If so any recommedations as to whats good?

thanks for any help you can give me.
Comp and a few other cam companies make a direct replacement camshafts in different classes of performance. Most of these will pop right in and you might be able to just reuse everything. Go the the kit version and just research the push rod they recommend. But, with your head change, you might have to have +.100 or so being your are also going to use a different rocker as well.

You do not want a small base circle cam, that is going backwards. You do not need to check all the valves, only 2, just run a straight edge down the heads and make sure someone did not make a mistake when installing the valves with a .100 longer or shorter valve. This is what mostly happens with a one off thing.

You should not need a different lifter, the stock ones will do very nice as long as you are not planning something like the small base circle unit.

You can go to Comps website and get all the parts listed for the cam and lifter kit with pushrods and timing set. Being you have new heads, the springs and retainers should already have been checked and set up for what you have ordered.

[JAKEJR266]

Whoops, HR would be around 7.2:o

LOL, yea, I saw that but I figured you'd catch it.

JakeJr

[Awesome Bill]

Before i start tearing thinga apart i'd like to get my materials together, to avoid delays. So here is what I have,a 350 sbc oem roller motor.
I'm putting in a new roller cam hydraulic, 548 lift 236 duratin @.050, on a 108 lobe center. 180cc Pro 1 Plat. head with 64cc chamber, 1.5 roller rockers. Just a low/mid rpm street motor. My question is am I likely to need longer than stock push rods, or new extended travel lifters? If so any recommedations as to whats good?

thanks for any help you can give me.

you will not need to run the extended lifter, the stock one will work fine, you will need a .100" longer push rod!

[JAKEJR266]

So what did you come up with? Inquiring minds want to know, LOL

JakeJr

[underdog]

Hey Bill,
Why is running a small base circle cam going backwards? They still have the same lift and duration you want don't they?

[Awesome Bill]

Hey Bill,
Why is running a small base circle cam going backwards? They still have the same lift and duration you want don't they?

Just take a look @ the LS1 stock cams and that is a hydraulic stock roller. Any time you can stiffen up the crank core, you make more power, any time you lesson the cam diameter you loose even more power. Most cams flex from one end to another and you can prove that big putting a degree wheel on the front and back and see what comes up when all valves are adjusted! Try it. The big three know this and so do any good engine builders. Small base circle cams loose power, but you have to run them with these big strokes in the GM only situation. That is why Ford Blocks make more power and ofcourse they have just a better overall engine combination!

[underdog]

Thanks

[Awesome Bill]

Thanks

A stiffer stick, roller am, always produces better power than something that moves all around, thus making the valve train deadlier and more rpm can be attained because of stability.