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72Lemans540
03-27-2010, 08:56 PM
I am new member today so bear with me.I just built 540 chevy,Forged steel 4.25 crank,6.385 h-beam rods,Dart big M 9.800 block,Dart pro-1 310cc very lightly touched up,milled .050,comp ratio 10.6;1.Eelbrock Vic jr. intake,hp 950 carb,bullett solid roller .710-.710,257-265 @.050.lobe separation110,2-1/8 prim. tube headers.heres where I need your help.Last week on the dyno from 3900 to 6200 torque was flat line between 550 and 558.HP peaked @659 @6200. At 5000 rpm horsepower was 528.Can someone help me figure this one out please ? My max torque is 558

Bad Influence Racing
03-27-2010, 10:16 PM
Before I get into the combination itself, I would like to make sure it was done right. I don't like the heads/carb/header combination, they are way too small for the combination.
Where is the cams intake centerline? LSA is 110, but where is it installed?
What is the dome size, chamber size, gasket used and piston in the hole?
You have a dyno sheet to post? Would like to see the fuel curve..

Just tryin to get some details that weren't mentioned before I start blaming hard parts. This engine really needs atleast a 325cc head on the small side, but they like the 345 Pro 1. You are using a cyl head that works on a 454inch engine, on a 540 inch engine, hence the very low power range. Intake is ok, but it needs a dominator. A 950 is basically a 750, way too small, not enough air AND fuel. Header is ehh, would rather see a 2 1/4". Don't worry about rpm being too high with these parts either. This engine should be seeing another 100hp min, as well as torque. Cam could be a tiny bit more on the duration side, but it is good enough for compression. Let me know about where the cam is and a few details so I can configure that compression is right on and not assume everything you said is right on, and we can start from there. I feel most of it is going to be the fact that the part of the combination that makes the power on these engines is way off.LMK.

72Lemans540
03-27-2010, 10:59 PM
The pistons are to my disappointment .020 in the hole,My engine builder doesnt understand quench height.Comp. height is 1.270,heads are 113 cc after flat mill,cometics.027 head gaskets, should equal 10.6:1.My builder is an excellent machinist but Im finding out he lacks hi-perf skills.The cam degreed to108

72Lemans540
03-27-2010, 11:03 PM
The pistons are to my disappointment .020 in the hole,My engine builder doesnt understand quench height.Comp. height is 1.270,heads are 113 cc after flat mill,cometics.027 head gaskets, should equal 10.6:1.My builder is an excellent machinist but Im finding out he lacks hi-perf skills.The cam degreed to108 intake.I cant figure out how to post my dyno sheet from document folder.

Bad Influence Racing
03-28-2010, 02:59 AM
What dome cc is are the pistons? Being .020" in the hole is fine iwth that .027" gasket. What many people don't realize, there is a huge difference from an engine builder, engine assembler, a machinist and a mechanic. Just because you are one of these doesn't mean they are automatically all of them. And just because one happens to be a great machinist and can assemble stuff, doesn't make one a builder. Nothing wrong with it by any means, as everyone has their own area of expertise. You just need to make sure the guy you choose can do what you are looking to do, otherwise there is nothin wrong with using someone who can machine and someone who can build, just make sure you have a good builder, as everything should be done according to what he says if he is up to the task as the builder's design is what will make power, not the guy who machines it or just slaps parts on it..In anycase, get me the cc on the dome height, I will compute compression for you. An 18cc dome within these parameters should net you 11.1. What is the bore size of the gasket? LMK.

Awesome Bill
03-28-2010, 10:31 AM
I am new member today so bear with me.I just built 540 chevy,Forged steel 4.25 crank,6.385 h-beam rods,Dart big M 9.800 block,Dart pro-1 310cc very lightly touched up,milled .050,comp ratio 10.6;1.Eelbrock Vic jr. intake,hp 950 carb,bullett solid roller .710-.710,257-265 @.050.lobe separation110,2-1/8 prim. tube headers.heres where I need your help.Last week on the dyno from 3900 to 6200 torque was flat line between 550 and 558.HP peaked @659 @6200. At 5000 rpm horsepower was 528.Can someone help me figure this one out please ? My max torque is 558

There is nothing wrong with any of your parts, the 950 is fine. Most likely the headers are too big for one thing, and putting a 2" tube on it will only cause less torque and most likely kill another 10-20 hp. A 2" primary is what I would of used @ the largest but you have what you have.

Here is what we need, a BSFC # and it must be accurate. We need to see where that is. Most likely, the engine just goes either rich or maybe lean. Some other specs I need. Where was peak torque? Where was peak HP. What fuel were you running, what timing were you running, did you have an air filter on it? What fuel system are you trying to run? Is is a stock 3/8" o.d. line. For any engine over 450 hp, a stock fuel line and fuel system won't do anything more than what you have. You need at the very least a " od line with a good blue holley pump and 8-9 psi of fuel pressure with the larger line.

Also, fuel level in the bowls play a large part also, with your engine, I would run them right at the max level which normally helps if the fuel system is the problem. Please send all the information I have went over and maybe we can find your problem. Once again, do not listen to anyone about your heads, carb, intake and especially your headers, obviously they are killing the cow before it gets a chance to eat some grass, in this case black top!. Your stuff is fine just be patient. Also what is this in, a nice detailed description of it and what your trying to do would be very helpful.

72Lemans540
03-28-2010, 05:30 PM
thanks Bill,2-1/8 headers for dyno only,not mine.BSFC averages .550.peak torque 558 at 6200rpm.peak hp is 665 at 6400 rpm.93 octane,timing is 34 total.Air horn on dyno. 1/2 " fuel line to each bowl.Fuel levels high on sight glass.Going in 72 lemans 400 race trans,trans brake,3800 stall not a cheap one,ford 9-inch,3.73 gear.90%street. Thank You

want-a-be
03-28-2010, 07:48 PM
Lemans,

.550-.558 sounds pretty darn rich to me for BSFC numbers when you're running gas. If you're running alky then it would be waaayyyyy lean. I'm thinking those numbers should be in the mid .40s fpr gas. .43 to .46 or so. We have a thread in the general subject section somewhere I think. look it up and see what was said in there. I would even suggest doing a search on the net for it.

Something seems a little off to only be making that lil' torque for what you have.

72Lemans540
03-28-2010, 09:22 PM
Thanks want a be,I checked the exhaust ports, the engine is on a cradle in my garage now,they are black bad.If I lean it out gradually and read the plugs do you think that will make enough difference?I am almost ready to change the cam.I dont know what else to do.Thanks

want-a-be
03-28-2010, 10:32 PM
Thanks want a be,I checked the exhaust ports, the engine is on a cradle in my garage now,they are black bad.If I lean it out gradually and read the plugs do you think that will make enough difference?I am almost ready to change the cam.I dont know what else to do.Thanks

Yea,...That would work ok. What jets, and power valves do you have in the carb right now? What vacuum are you running at an idle? More then likely,...when you put an exhaust on this thing it will fatten up even more. Well, assuming this is going into a street car that is.

If you're going to drive this on the street I'd think that cam would be ok...just need to play around with the combination a bit. If this is going into a race car then, yea, you could look into a different cam.

Don

72Lemans540
03-29-2010, 12:47 AM
Engine builder didnt have vacuum hooked up during dyno,I will take carb apart to check power valves and jetting tomorrow,Yes street car. Thanks Don

Bad Influence Racing
03-29-2010, 03:39 AM
I wouldn't mess with the camshaft with his current setup. It seems to be right there and if it is ground at 110 and installed around 106, it is fine. Like I was trying to say, it seems to need some tuning especially with those bsfc numbers being way too rich, but I would only change the camshaft if is going to step up the combination to make more power. Otherwise I would leave it. Don is right, if this thing gets an exhaust, it will get richer due to the restriction. Sounds like it will need a bunch of jet pulled out and timing will need to be adjusted accordingly. I just don't understand how the guy tuning it on the dyno didn't see fit to lean it down.:confused:

Awesome Bill
03-29-2010, 10:26 AM
thanks Bill,2-1/8 headers for dyno only,not mine.BSFC averages .550.peak torque 558 at 6200rpm.peak hp is 665 at 6400 rpm.93 octane,timing is 34 total.Air horn on dyno. 1/2 " fuel line to each bowl.Fuel levels high on sight glass.Going in 72 lemans 400 race trans,trans brake,3800 stall not a cheap one,ford 9-inch,3.73 gear.90%street. Thank You

If the head was to small, your peak torque should be well under 5250, this is a fact. The mere fact it is 6200 means everything is really to big or something is out of wack bad. So lets assume everything is fine with the heads, cam, intake and carb for a moment.

Don is right, after my find but he is pretty sharp, the .550 means that for 1 lb of fuel your not even getting 2 hp. That is pretty bad especially for an engine that has supposedly to big of heads, its not. The vacuum advance if you have one does not do anything under wide open throttle so don't worry about that, its just for driveability and fuel mileage. The brake specific should be around .450 to .460 to make decent power. Your dyno guy does not know what he is doing. I would of had that fixed and along with a couple other things.

Find out what jet is in the front and back and check to see if you have power valves front and back. At this time I would pull no jet out of the main. Pull the high side air bleed out and I think you should have something like a 30 or 32, put that right to 38 or 40. This should clean up the fuel.

Also, 34 degrees timing is not enough for your compression and pump gas. I have guys running 36 & 38 with know problem. These 2 things will be worth about 50-60 hp more. Put the timing up to 38 and maybe even 40, if the dyno shows power gains. BE CAREFUL with the timing.

I don't know how the guy was running the dyno but it seems from him and these #'s he just done some pulls and let her go. We make the changes on anyones engines to make the power and BSFC the best it can be. Your too rich and not enough timing.

Your peak torque with those way to little should of been under 5200 and I suspect the dyno. The peak power is also a little high for little heads and your 750/950 CARB . So your making decent power up top meaning your heads, carb, intake and cam are fine.

Are you going to dyno again? If not, your track et will be your dyno. You can PM me and I will guide you threw a couple things. Like I said, your stuff is fine and not to small. Hope this helps, at least your going in the right direction and not pulling your engine back apart to spend another $5000 on new heads, cam, intake, carb etc. Your fine and it will run great. How do you know you have a 3800 stall converter is what I want to know? Is this a 10"

72Lemans540
03-29-2010, 10:49 PM
Thanks Bill,I appreciate you taking time for my issue.My converter is coming from Midwest converter in Rockford,IL.It wasnt cheap and I was told they keep everybody happy and fast at the track.You and Don seem to make the most sense on My problem.I do have experience on chevy motors,but no dyno experience until now.By the way how much information do you have to load into the dyno before a pull? Thank you, Dan Bazzarone

want-a-be
03-29-2010, 11:13 PM
thanks Bill,2-1/8 headers for dyno only,not mine.BSFC averages .550.peak torque 558 at 6200rpm.peak hp is 665 at 6400 rpm.93 octane,timing is 34 total.Air horn on dyno. 1/2 " fuel line to each bowl.Fuel levels high on sight glass.Going in 72 lemans 400 race trans,trans brake,3800 stall not a cheap one,ford 9-inch,3.73 gear.90%street. Thank You

Sorry Lemans,...I forgot to mention that I also think your fuel level in your bowls are way too high also. When you run gas you don't need the float level to be so high. This could also cause a rich condition. You can rest the float level with out removing the bowls if you want to. Just lower the fuel to where it is just below the sight plug. There is another way I set my floats for gas, and alky, if you are interested.

If your fuel is too high in the float then you run the risk of siphoning if out of the boosters. You can see this at an idle if you look into the top of the carb. If there is any fuel dripping out of the booster then you have a problem. But there is a chance it isn't too high also. Sometimes you can get away with this for some reason....

Don

72Lemans540
03-29-2010, 11:43 PM
Thanks Don, I will remember that.I am about to buy headers,will 2217 hkr hooker 2" match up to my dart pro-1 heads. I also heard that with raised .300 exhaust ports these headers will still fit ok. Thanks

Awesome Bill
03-30-2010, 10:58 AM
Thanks Bill,I appreciate you taking time for my issue.My converter is coming from Midwest converter in Rockford,IL.It wasnt cheap and I was told they keep everybody happy and fast at the track.You and Don seem to make the most sense on My problem.I do have experience on chevy motors,but no dyno experience until now.By the way how much information do you have to load into the dyno before a pull? Thank you, Dan Bazzarone

You have to load the size of the engine divided by 2 so your 540 should of had 270 loaded, the specific gravity of the fuel which is normally around .735 for race gas, you could measure it and be dead on, a lot of people do that. I don't, I just read it off the Renegade and VP book. Pump gas, I try to run 91-93 Octane all the time. The inertia factor for your engine would be on my dyno .030. The changes the calculation for spinning heavier and heavier rotators or larger one versus smaller ones. Does not change the dyno #'s drastically. RPM from starting point to ending point, acceleration factor, which I use anywhere from 200 to 750 depending on engine and use and what I want to see. This allows the engine to span slowly like a marine engine or very fast like a drag engine.

My dyno has a weather station built in so I can not manipulate correction factors like I have seen in very generous dyno facility's.

I have thought about your dyno session and I know why your #'s are so far off on torque. You guy just let the engine wing up and the water did not catch the dyno until enough rpm started to make it lock up. That is why I have an automatic load control. It never lets the engine wing up, it runs a very slow and controlled acceleration rate so I can see even to 25 rpm changes if I want to look at specific data very closely.

Your guy just floored the throttle and let the motor wing up so the load meter did not come tight until the very high rpm rate. A rookie mistake. When I had the older manual load control, that was a mess. To duplicate a pull was almost impossible!. Old timers did it but they always started high and just let the engine go until it stopped making power. This was very inaccurate!. I think your going to be fine.

Your floats being to high does change BSFC but not enough to have what you had. You would of seen fuel spilling over either the booster or popping out the fuel bowl vent. I run the fuel bowl level within 1/8" of the top of the hole on a site plug carb. This makes the fuel recovery more manageable and keeps the fuel curve way closer with little to no AF ratio's bouncing around.

I can't stand it when someone always says its to big, its to small, the cam is wrong the carb is wrong and you need to look @ my spin tron etc etc etc. Your stuff is well able of making good power and I personally would of used the same stuff for the build. That is my decision.

You'll be fine with your combo and if you want that thing dyno tested, box it up and send it out, you get it back 100% of what you want to know with all data you can look at for a long time.

3V Performance
03-30-2010, 01:23 PM
May I ask the O/P how the afr was measured on the dyno? ( Flow meeter and air hat? ) or ( o2's? ).

Now an efficent cumbustion chamber will require less timing. A poorly shaped port and plug location will all change this.
BSFC will only tell you how efficent you are converting fuel into power. Pounds per hr will tell you how much fuel your using. Choices in parts and prep will show you how well you did your homework in low BSFC numbers.

In the USA, the fuel flow for BSFC calculations is normally expressed in pounds per hour (lb/hr) while the output units, of course, are in horsepower (Hp). So, our standard formula for BSFC becomes: lb/Hp-hr . For an engine producing 200 horsepower, while guzzling 100 pounds of gasoline per hour, the equation would yield 100/200 = 0.50 BSFC. Unlike AFR (Air/Fuel ratio) readings which only reveal the mixture, BSFC data represents the power provided per fuel unit. AFR and BSFC are not equivalent.

72Lemans540
03-30-2010, 03:51 PM
Thanks For the help everyone,Bill is that rookie mistake on dyno what caused the torque curve to be a flat line like it was drawn with a straight edge across the entire dyno sheet?Bill if you pm me your email adress I can send you dyno sheets or I can fax to you.Thank You for all your help,Dan

72Lemans540
03-30-2010, 09:45 PM
Tom 3-V I will tell you what I know, He had a horn on it with what I believe was a mass airflow sensor and a fan. He also had 02 sensor.Thanks, Dan

72Lemans540
03-30-2010, 10:15 PM
Ok,check community-pictures you can see dyno sheets 72Lemans540 The torque curve has no curve,Is this normal

3V Performance
03-30-2010, 10:39 PM
Tom 3-V I will tell you what I know, He had a horn on it with what I believe was a mass airflow sensor and a fan. He also had 02 sensor.Thanks, Dan

Hi Dan, OK he had O2's in each pri pipe or one in each collector? What was the O2 readings during the dyno pulls?

72Lemans540
03-30-2010, 10:56 PM
Tom,if you go to community-pictures you can see the printout sheet.I am not real good with the dyno lingo.Thanks,Dan

want-a-be
03-30-2010, 11:13 PM
What correction factor did they use?

Don

3V Performance
03-30-2010, 11:13 PM
OK Dan I just looked over your dyno sheet. If you can trust any of those numbers you are not rich at all. Take a look at your fuel used per the run. A typical 520ci ( 4" stroke ) engine will use about 330lbr @ 6500 and 350lbr @ 7000 and move 1100 cfm of air to achieve 14to1 AFR and make 790hp. Notice your air flow. 800cfm ???? and fuel used 300+ lbs per hr. Either your cam is way off or the dyno air turban is off but your not moving any air through this engine based only on air flow through the turban. Leave the fuel alone and fix the airflow problem and your numbers will come in line. This is why you never jet an engine on the dyno based on BSFC numbers. A rookie mistake would have made less power and hurt somthing.

72Lemans540
03-30-2010, 11:53 PM
Don,I watched him do the setup,he had a little hand held rig I think it was a weather station,it took him about 30 seconds for setup and he fired motor warmed it up did one pull and said thats it.The guy is an excellent machinist,but when it comes to hi-perf he just doesnt get it.hes a great guy but he still argued with me about the quench height saying it didnt matter.Thanks,Dan

72Lemans540
03-31-2010, 12:09 AM
Tom,I did ask him to do a second pull,this time he put a 4150 to 4500 adapter and 1150 dominator it gained 19hp @6600,Torque numbers little lower than 950 carb until 6500 then up just a little.Could he mess up the pull enough to make a straight line like that

want-a-be
03-31-2010, 12:21 AM
I'm not sure how talented he is, but I use to do some machine work for a guy up around Decatur, Il. who has a dyno. If you would want to redyno that is.

I could give you his contact information if you're interested.

Don

72Lemans540
03-31-2010, 01:02 AM
Besides the obvios,jetting and timing.Does anyone think this motor could benefit from more duration.My Dad has same exact motor but cam is lunati #50204 it runs real good(same builder),not dynoed and tuned by me and on the bottle for 9 years.

want-a-be
03-31-2010, 10:49 AM
Something that none of us has asked is, what chassis are you putting this in? Will it put the power that you are making right now to the ground?

Don

3V Performance
03-31-2010, 12:29 PM
Besides the obvios,jetting and timing.Does anyone think this motor could benefit from more duration.My Dad has same exact motor but cam is lunati #50204 it runs real good(same builder),not dynoed and tuned by me and on the bottle for 9 years.

A 540 in engine loves camshafts. How high do you want to run this engine? Your stuff is on the small side for me. The #50204 would be better for power with 1.85 intake rocker and 1.7 exhaust.

72Lemans540
03-31-2010, 10:42 PM
The engine is going in a 72 Lemans, Picture of car in community.The car just had body off resto.Just yanked 350 pontiac and trans out,need to pick out headers if anybody wants to help.Just started looking at 9-inch rearends. I picked up turbo 400 trans. with trans brake and 3800 converter today ,boy the cash is flyin now.Who makes best rearend for GM A-body.Thanks,Dan

snakeeater1968
04-01-2010, 01:12 AM
The engine is going in a 72 Lemans, Picture of car in community.The car just had body off resto.Just yanked 350 pontiac and trans out,need to pick out headers if anybody wants to help.Just started looking at 9-inch rearends. I picked up turbo 400 trans. with trans brake and 3800 converter today ,boy the cash is flyin now.Who makes best rearend for GM A-body.Thanks,Dan

we have a 69' bird it has a 541 in it BBP motor...we are realy happy with our moser FAB9 rear diff...it's bullet proof and they are awsome to work with at moser...http://www.moserengineering.com/ check them out for yourself..they are located near muncie Indiana...

lun40119
04-01-2010, 01:46 AM
I am running a Strange Dana 60 in my A-body. Love it, and wouldn't change it for the world.

JAKEJR266
04-03-2010, 07:23 PM
I just read the posts in this thread trying to get a handle on what's going on but, unless I missed it somehow, I don't know what the goal is. Many of the suggestions already made are EXCELLENT and making them will certainly improve the power, yet how will we know we've reached the goal without one - a goal that is?

We know where he is with the engine, but where does he want it to be? Wouldn't it be nice to have a target in sight; something to shoot for? It would be best to have a goal, then we can come up with a plan to get there and "A Russkie, son, doesn't take a dump without a plan." (taken from 'Hunt For Red October')

Just my thoughts on how I'd approach this.

JakeJr

Awesome Bill
04-04-2010, 12:12 PM
The book.:D Must be why he never answered any of my questions on any of the comments he made.

May I ask the O/P how the afr was measured on the dyno? ( Flow meeter and air hat? ) or ( o2's? ).

Now an efficent cumbustion chamber will require less timing. A poorly shaped port and plug location will all change this.

I guess some of the experts here might be confused. BSFC will only tell you how efficent you are converting fuel into power. Pounds per hr will tell you how much fuel your using. Choices in parts and prep will show you how well you did your homework in low BSFC numbers.

(( In the USA, the fuel flow for BSFC calculations is normally expressed in pounds per hour (lb/hr) while the output units, of course, are in horsepower (Hp). So, our standard formula for BSFC becomes: lb/Hp-hr . For an engine producing 200 horsepower, while guzzling 100 pounds of gasoline per hour, the equation would yield 100/200 = 0.50 BSFC. Unlike AFR (Air/Fuel ratio) readings which only reveal the mixture, BSFC data represents the power provided per fuel unit. AFR and BSFC are not equivalent!



This is a given, its a BBC conventional combustion chamber, they are not efficient especially this one. Not to say its bad but they are very large and that itself makes it bad.

Awesome Bill
04-04-2010, 12:52 PM
Thanks For the help everyone,Bill is that rookie mistake on dyno what caused the torque curve to be a flat line like it was drawn with a straight edge across the entire dyno sheet?Bill if you pm me your email adress I can send you dyno sheets or I can fax to you.Thank You for all your help,Dan

I do not really know what he done there and how it came to be. What I do now is that your engine was very inefficient and the BSFC proves how bad it was. But, the timing was very low for the pump gas, if we could of made more power, as it would of with a simple bump of 2-4 timing, your BSFC would of come down without a fuel change. And for the comments about the Fuel Consumption #'s from Tommy, some is correct but its just paper talk. A very efficient or low BSFC along with very good HP #'s really only show you just how good your intake to cylinder filling really is. On a pro stock engine, I have seen high .39s and very low .4s with very very good hp. Also the SBX stuff from CFE and other very efficient combinations.

But all that means squat, we are dealing with a very basic engine here with some small problems in tuning and choices. Everyone wants to post big long drawn out conclusion now that I have addressed some serious but minor issues with your pull. Remember, not to long ago everything you had was near junk, too small and you shoulda coulda done it all different. Once again, your stuff is good.

If you can not get another dyno session, take the car to the track with some very sticky tires, and run it. I would start with the engine set up just like the dyno session was. After a good base line, then add 2 timing and that alone. See what it does. If it picks up, run it 2 times, if it is consistent, give it 2 more timing, if it picks up, give it 1 more. Once you get around 38 total timing, I think that is where I would only go 1 at a time. When the car does not run any faster, back it up 1. Then, get a set of low # air bleeds, pull the high speed air bleed out and go up 4#'s all the way around. Most likely the high speed will be a 30. Go to 34. if the car does not run any better, go back and put 28's in it, if it does not do any better, the engine likes it just where it is. As always, make sure every run is spin free, that is why I use a drag slick to make sure tire spin is not there. Your 60ft will tell you if you made more power or if you did not.

Awesome Bill
04-04-2010, 12:59 PM
The engine is going in a 72 Lemans, Picture of car in community.The car just had body off resto.Just yanked 350 pontiac and trans out,need to pick out headers if anybody wants to help.Just started looking at 9-inch rearends. I picked up turbo 400 trans. with trans brake and 3800 converter today ,boy the cash is flyin now.Who makes best rearend for GM A-body.Thanks,Dan

While 9" rears are the trend, if you want to loose 30-40hp or torque, don't use one. Get the new Dana 60 or 12Bolt from Moser and you will love it and can't break it. The Dana 60 is a tad heavier but will not use up as much torque to operate. We sell them and have no problems and are as much as 2-10th's quicker! That is race proven!

Awesome Bill
04-04-2010, 01:15 PM
Besides the obvios,jetting and timing.Does anyone think this motor could benefit from more duration.My Dad has same exact motor but cam is lunati #50204 it runs real good(same builder),not dynoed and tuned by me and on the bottle for 9 years.

Most likely no, the head is your governor, you can add all the duration you want and it will only keep taking torque away but may give a little hp back. I would not go threw or even think about that until you fix what you have. Who is to say when you do test it, it might be better than you think?

Awesome Bill
04-04-2010, 01:21 PM
I am running a Strange Dana 60 in my A-body. Love it, and wouldn't change it for the world.

Other than gear changing, the Ford 9" you get to work on the bench, The dana you get to do it in the car. I have a Dana 60 with 3.73 gears in my 8.50 car and it has pull 1.26 60's with a 10" converter and run 164mph in the .

72Lemans540
04-04-2010, 01:28 PM
Bill,I e mailed superflo and they nailed it, the torque setting was on LOW which gave me a corrected torque reading in the 550s across the board.My guy made a mistake and admitted it.We all make mistakes.He going to dyno again on tuesday,I will post new dyno sheet.Thanks,Dan

72Lemans540
04-04-2010, 11:13 PM
I have a new question,what is better for cooling on the street,electric water pump or crank driven.I am driving a p.s. pump and alternator also.Who makes the best acc. drive system for bbc? that wont break the bank. Does anyone nowadays make a v-belt set up that wont fly off or do I go with a serpentine?Thanks,Dan

72Lemans540
04-05-2010, 10:08 PM
Tomorrow.........high noon DYNO again

72Lemans540
04-05-2010, 10:14 PM
Today after work I stopped at machine shop, they had started bolting 540 on dyno.I pulled a plug out and it looked good,it was pure white but not lean.There was a little tan spot about half way up the porcelan???

want-a-be
04-05-2010, 10:21 PM
Good for you Lemans. Looking forward to hearing how this session turns out. Don't be afraid of bumping the timing up near 40. Pay attention to your jetting as you increase the timing though. Don't be surprised if it even likes more then 40.

Good luck,

Don

lun40119
04-05-2010, 11:46 PM
Yeah, it will be cool to see what you get this time around. Glad to hear that it worked out for you. Start a new thread with the new stuff though. Lets just let this one go away ;)

want-a-be
04-06-2010, 01:47 AM
Yeah, it will be cool to see what you get this time around. Glad to hear that it worked out for you. Start a new thread with the new stuff though. Lets just let this one go away ;)

Good call Jake. It will be nice to see this one slip into the past.

Don

Trmnatr
04-06-2010, 07:13 AM
Today after work I stopped at machine shop, they had started bolting 540 on dyno.I pulled a plug out and it looked good,it was pure white but not lean.There was a little tan spot about half way up the porcelan???

Maybe start a second thread, Dyno Vids Part II

Good luck buddy

72Lemans540
04-07-2010, 02:15 AM
New dyno pull 708 hp at 6000 rpm ,698 torque at 4600 with 1050 carb and it wants more carb,would 1150 be too much on the street? Thanks,Dan

lun40119
04-07-2010, 11:06 AM
You could be a very good racer building their own $hit

I dont see him upset, just look at it as his opinion and yours as your opinion. They are like a$$holes, everybody has one

I like your signature, Good Job :D

This engine that I am running now is the first engine of mine that I haven't assembled. Otherwise I have assembled everyone of mine. I still do assemble stuff. Just did an LT1 for a 95 impala type car. Running well. We are looking for 11.7's at 4200+lbs.

Awesome Bill
04-07-2010, 11:16 AM
Today after work I stopped at machine shop, they had started bolting 540 on dyno.I pulled a plug out and it looked good,it was pure white but not lean.There was a little tan spot about half way up the porcelan???

Your looking at the wrong part of the spark plug, you should be looking all the way in to bottom, turn the plug upside down, it should have a nice small dark ring in the very bottom. This is where you look for a fuel trace or lean or rich condition.

Awesome Bill
04-07-2010, 11:28 AM
New dyno pull 708 hp at 6000 rpm ,698 torque at 4600 with 1050 carb and it wants more carb,would 1150 be too much on the street? Thanks,Dan

Your making 1.31 REAL hp per cube, that is not bad by any means and the 698 torque which is even with the hp means you just done every near perfect. Don't get worried about so called higher #'s, they are normally pushed to the max of even being believable. Your torque now peaks correctly and that thing will do very well naturally, not to mention on the spray. You better have a tight converter!

The 1150 might make some power but you will start to trade off down low for up high. Try it and see what happens.

It might be better to fines what you have and dial it in if the guy can do it.

3V Performance
04-07-2010, 08:58 PM
Congrats on your new dyno info. May I ask I see were you quoated on your Community pics post that all you did was change the knob setting. Is this the only change you made? Was there timming changed? Try any different carb? How did the airflow go from 800's to over 1000? I would like to here more about your second dyno day? How many pulls?

72Lemans540
04-07-2010, 11:01 PM
We did 3 pulls with hp 950 no spacer,it liked 36 degrees best and then we put on a 1050 dominator and it really liked that.we also used 2" hooker super comps instead of 2-1/8 4 pulls total .Thanks,Dan

Awesome Bill
04-08-2010, 10:17 AM
We did 3 pulls with hp 950 no spacer,it liked 36 degrees best and then we put on a 1050 dominator and it really liked that.we also used 2" hooker super comps instead of 2-1/8 4 pulls total .Thanks,Dan

I got a chance to look @ your dyno sheets and I guess not everyone knows how to read them. Those dyno sheets are @ best just a basic dyno sheet that I would only go by the dyno hp and torque #'s @ best. NOTHING ADDS UP. This set of dyno findings are not even close to being correct or can verify the findings within itself!

I would ask SuperFlow to come and calibrate all his sensors. Something is really wrong and just reading the data shows no one really pays attention to anything but power #'s. Awesome Engines has one of the most accurate Dyno facilities you can find and I can find any problem with an engine combination after 1 hard full clean pull. All my data you can confirm within the data.

I would suggest that the actual #'s might be pretty close just looking @ the torque and power #'s. But from there, its really not very good.

We supply engine temp, keeps everything to a standard, oil temp, also makes sure oil temp is the same and not cold or hotter, air temp into the engine and the room, this verifies my correction factor, barometer, thats a given, I have a weather station inside a weather station to make sure both are the same. I also don't give a flip about O2 sensors, just not got them yet, but we have 8 EGTS to see each cylinder. Without that, how do you adjust for individual cylinder problems? An O2 just bunches it all together. I am planning on have 8 O2s really soon, but will wait till the new building is up and we are in nice and neat. Just because room temp is 80 does not mean the engine is not getting heat pulled from the headers over into the induction. On hot days, we see 4-8 difference from room temp from the weather station to what is actually getting in the engine. That is why I have a prob going in right under the MAFM. Gives me a few more correct hp when I am finding myself hunting for where did the power go.

As for your dyno #'s, nothing adds up to the power you have.

3V Performance
04-08-2010, 12:23 PM
The gentlman that did the dyno work should have all the info Bill is looking for that is not on your sheet. Whats on your sheet is just what he has selected for printout. The dyno has 10 pages of info it captures during a single pull. You just have to ask and he should be able to select and print it out for you. If you wan't ask him to copy and past your file and you can go to SuperFlow.com and download the vewer program and load your info in and replay all your info at anytime. Then you can post your different info of the run people ask you for to help you better.

72Lemans540
04-08-2010, 09:32 PM
Thanks Tom,He does does have more info,I saw the water out,oil press,vac. etc.... He was also having trouble with his printer,and I dont feel like figuring out what is wrong with that too.Thanks,Dan