More help Needed T&D Rockers

[ComaxRacing]

I know a number of guys on this forum have used T&D rockers, I need an opinion. I am in the process of setting my stand height and I went as per the instructions but the stands seem really low. I used the checking guage and set them to what was required but the pushrods are at a real wicked angle going into the adjusters, like the stands are too low.

Could you check my math. Instructions say, for lifts higher than .750" the stands should be lowered by 1/2 the lift difference. I have a .900" lift cam and that is .150" more than .750" divided by 2 therefore I should be .075" below the guage. But it seems low. Worst part is I ran a pattern on the valve tip and it looks pretty damn good, but with the poor pushrod angle I'm going to distroy my adjusters the minute the engine fires.

I realise the instructions are for a starting point, but will I cause any problems if I just throw the instructions away (figure of speech) and shim for the best pattern

I am going to call T&D on monday but any advice would be helpful.

Corey

[ComaxRacing]

Update, I got the intakes not bad with a pretty good pattern but when I did my exhausts the pushrods contact the intake bar. Not by much but it looks like I will have to relieve the intake bar to clear the exhaust pushrod. I am using a really small base cirlce cam could this be causing my problems? Both still really have a wicked angle to the adjusters.

Thanks
Corey

[Awesome Bill]

Update, I got the intakes not bad with a pretty good pattern but when I did my exhausts the pushrods contact the intake bar. Not by much but it looks like I will have to relieve the intake bar to clear the exhaust pushrod. I am using a really small base cirlce cam could this be causing my problems? Both still really have a wicked angle to the adjusters.

Thanks
Corey

we have to modify that bar all the time. We only use the pattern method, anything else is bullsh__. narrow pattern anywhere close to center is fine. BLACK MAGIC MARKER and roll her over with the valve lash.

[ComaxRacing]

Thanks Bill, one more question for you. Will the width of the pattern be different for a cam with .900" lift as opposed to one with say .650" lift? Or should they be just as narrow regardless of the lift?

Corey

[ComaxRacing]

If anybody is interested, I talked to T&D and they said that I shouldn't have had to clearance the intake bar. I explained that there was no way it was going to work without clearancing, and the the tech said the only time you may have to clearance is if you use a 1.8 rocker. So basically there is a time you have to clearance and they really didn't want to admit it.

I don't mind, I have very rarly ever had anything fit perfect right off the bat and I am using a little bit larger pushrod than average.

Didn't take very much grinding at all
http://i519.photobucket.com/albums/u358/ComaxRacing/HPIM1180-1.jpg

Should be plenty of room now

Corey

[want-a-be]

Thanks for keeping in the loop Corey.

Don

[Trmnatr]

You should check mid lift

I could live with the pattern being OFF CENTER as long as it is narrow

The wider the pattern the more lift/valve action your loosing due to the rocker scrubbing across the valve

[ComaxRacing]

Actually, once I started testing shims and pushrod lenghts I got a very nice pattern pretty much dead center and about .080 wide (approx but looks nice and narrow). As far as the angle of the pushrods, once I got the pattern correct they were not too bad. More than I'm used to but still not bad.

I just have to learn not to panic:eek: before I finish fitting everything. You think I would have learned that by now. :D

Thanks


Corey

[lun40119]

Sound pretty good to me Corey. My pattern got a little wider with this new cam. We put as much pivot length in the rocker that would fit under the cover, so that helped. I think Tom said it was in the .060 area. He did make the comment that it didn't move much laterally until it gets up above .650 lift. Mine nets .850.

[ComaxRacing]

I tried adding shims to increase the pivot lenght to try and help the pushrod angle but all it did was push the pattern closer to the edge of the valve tip and made it really wide. I settled on .080 under the intake stands and .040 under the exhausts and I will just keep an eye on the adjusters.

Guess I can order my pushrods on Tuesday.

Thanks everybody for the help.:) Getting closer by the minute to finishing this thing.

Corey

[Awesome Bill]

I tried adding shims to increase the pivot lenght to try and help the pushrod angle but all it did was push the pattern closer to the edge of the valve tip and made it really wide. I settled on .080 under the intake stands and .040 under the exhausts and I will just keep an eye on the adjusters.

Guess I can order my pushrods on Tuesday.

Thanks everybody for the help.:) Getting closer by the minute to finishing this thing.

Corey

Hey Corey, been very busy and have not had any time to just relax. The theory is that T&D says they set their bars up for a .750" lift, but that means nothing, they don't know how long your valve is, what the base circle of the cam is and if any other things like someone cleaned up the mounting surface, or even changed the angle a bit from anything from manufacturing problems or they made a mistake.

If you have a .900" lift cam, take away the valve adjustment and go from there. IF YOU HAD A REAL .900 net lift, that is only .150 more, divide that by 2 and that is only .075, usually with v/a subtracted its around .060. So you would lower the stands that much. But, what if your stands were on the surface of the head already, what do you do? I add a lash cap! Either way, the pattern is what your after so go for the thin pattern and close to center as possible. Some Jesel stuff we use is horrible on the pattern but works well.

The stands are what they are, if they rub, make it so they dont!