View Full Version : Little M Sportsman Roller Lifters
lekid
09-14-2010, 01:26 AM
I know that it is required to have 0.300" longer lifters on SHP Blocks, but what about Little M Sportsman block?
I am asking because the SHP block is $1450 + lifters ($550) = $2000
If i can re-use my setup and use the Little M Sportsman Block: $2135 (looks like a better option)
Thanks in advance
atherton1
09-14-2010, 02:25 AM
I have used the little m blocks and they will accept a standard lifter
Awesome Bill
09-26-2010, 11:20 AM
I have used the little m blocks and they will accept a standard lifter
Little M requires a +.300" lifter! the lifter will not even touch the small base circle camshaft. If you use the largest base circle cam, you might touch. But, then you can run a 3.75-3.875-4.00 crank without destroying the rods.
lun40119
09-26-2010, 03:44 PM
Yep..............the Little M I would use the+.300 stuff too.
Awesome Bill
10-10-2010, 11:54 AM
Yep..............the Little M I would use the+.300 stuff too.
I should make this clear, the body is the same body and seat postion, the +.300" is only the tab for the link bar and its raised .300, nothing else!
lun40119
10-10-2010, 02:28 PM
Yep.............you are correct. Thanks for clearing it up though.
3V Performance
10-10-2010, 03:24 PM
Get with Jake, He had a set we took out of his engine.
little M block here... std roller lifters fitted
i pre assembled the block, and found the tie bar on the crane lifters, slightly touched on the casting on the block.
after a bout 30minutes of clearancing, and smoothing out the oil return to the sump, the lifters fitted ok.
not sure about other brands of lifters, but my std ones fitted ok. been there for 1.5 seasons.
i can see real easy how the taller lifters would make life easy tho.;)
lekid
10-12-2010, 01:08 PM
Is it reular circle or small base circle? Mine is a .950" base circle
Awesome Bill
10-14-2010, 11:16 AM
Is it reular circle or small base circle? Mine is a .950" base circle
if your trying to run any lift with the small block, you will be running a .900 to .850 cam core. Still considered junk in any terms. The more lift the more they cut off the back side and the more the lifter falls down! Take your pick, they are all prone to breakage and for sure kill power!
3V Performance
10-14-2010, 12:02 PM
We have over 1.00" base circle in Jakes with over .850 lift. 3.750 stroke. No need for .850 to .900 base circle.
lekid
10-14-2010, 02:07 PM
I have run the .950" base circle in all my enigne and all my friends engine in 383 and 400 with lifts up to 0.650" and never had to machine a rod.
Awesome Bill
10-15-2010, 11:12 AM
I have run the .950" base circle in all my enigne and all my friends engine in 383 and 400 with lifts up to 0.650" and never had to machine a rod.
With .650 lift, your dead! As far as anything larger you have to compromise the rod bolt and rod to get any really good cam base cores that are strong enough. YES TOMMY, YOU CAN GET SOME CAM INTO THE ENGINES WITH 1.880 HONDA ROD JOURNAL STUFF OR EVEN THE 2.0 ROD JOURNAL, but you won't get that base circle of 1.00, which is still small without normal rods have to be touched up. 1.1 to 1.3 is where power is really made,
Try to think of normal people here and what questions they are really looking for solid answers for . WE all no about exotic stuff and what we can possibly get! NOT the stuff that is not in the reach of novis guys here trying to get some fast engines done on a common ground.
lun40119
10-15-2010, 11:36 AM
Bill, mine is a 2.100 big end.............fits just fine without touching the rods. Seriously. :)
CNC BLOCKS
10-15-2010, 11:45 AM
We are building a 415 engine 3.875 stroke with 650 lift roller and we are using a .100 base circle cam and 2.100 rod journal and seem to have plenty of room. Using a Dart platform and the customer wanted main studs which wasn't and problem for our shops to do.
3V Performance
10-15-2010, 12:18 PM
Bill, mine is a 2.100 big end.............fits just fine without touching the rods. Seriously. :)
Same rods and crank you had before.
Awesome Bill
10-16-2010, 11:32 AM
Bill, mine is a 2.100 big end.............fits just fine without touching the rods. Seriously. :)
Put the lobe sep on the cam that is required and with any H-Beam rod you have to machine it. With the larger strokes, you have to remove more and more material. If you have a Pro Mod rod, you will have enough room but when do we use a Pro Mod? Everyone uses the common H-Beam. Even when you put a 5.7 stock GM rod into the stock GM block or any block, you have to nip the rod bolt. That is why GM used the 5.565 rod with the funny rod bolts. If your saying you got 3.875 rod with a 2.100 rod into the engine without machining, you must be running the lobe sep around 106? All our engines have the 110+ lobe seps and make very respectable power. Mark Pettit has a 434 of mine with Brodix Track 1 heads and the Brodix intake with the turlte I done on it and he foot brakes it with a 850 Ruppert carb and has been 9.36 @ 3200lbs. Does it all the time. Motor went 737 on my dyno @ 7000 rpm. Adds up pretty good. Ofcourse, I had to cut the H-Beam rod back to almost 4 threads just to get the cam in the engine. Even Jeffs engine with the new cam we had to notch the H-Beam rods to get the cam in. Maybe you guys are doing something GM could not do and a ton of engine builders have to do to the stock GM 5.7 rods just to run a flat tappet cam?
lun40119
10-16-2010, 11:34 AM
Put the lobe sep on the cam that is required and with any H-Beam rod you have to machine it. With the larger strokes, you have to remove more and more material. If you have a Pro Mod rod, you will have enough room but when do we use a Pro Mod? Everyone uses the common H-Beam. Even when you put a 5.7 stock GM rod into the stock GM block or any block, you have to nip the rod bolt. That is why GM used the 5.565 rod with the funny rod bolts. If your saying you got 3.875 rod with a 2.100 rod into the engine without machining, you must be running the lobe sep around 106? All our engines have the 110+ lobe seps and make very respectable power. Mark Pettit has a 434 of mine with Brodix Track 1 heads and the Brodix intake with the turlte I done on it and he foot brakes it with a 850 Ruppert carb and has been 9.36 @ 3200lbs. Does it all the time. Motor went 737 on my dyno @ 7000 rpm. Adds up pretty good. Ofcourse, I had to cut the H-Beam rod back to almost 4 threads just to get the cam in the engine. Even Jeffs engine with the new cam we had to notch the H-Beam rods to get the cam in. Maybe you guys are doing something GM could not do and a ton of engine builders have to do to the stock GM 5.7 rods just to run a flat tappet cam?
I am 3.750 Bill, :)
Awesome Bill
10-16-2010, 11:41 AM
I am 3.750 Bill, :)
By the way, I prefer the 3.75" crank to any of the others,
but it don't matter Jake, they don't fit unless you have a stroker designed rod? The pro mod stuff used to help and I know the Lunati rod is good for some clearance but most of these guys on here are running H-Beam rods. As an engine builder, I have to use what is the most common thing or throw it away. We don't refuse any work and we make it work. We ofcourse only machine what has to be taken off the rod. Check out Eagles notched rods! They just wack em off and don't even stretch the bolt first. Buy a set of there rods and stretch the bolts to the proper yield and you then have to buy rod bolts.
lun40119
10-16-2010, 12:06 PM
By the way, I prefer the 3.75" crank to any of the others,
but it don't matter Jake, they don't fit unless you have a stroker designed rod? The pro mod stuff used to help and I know the Lunati rod is good for some clearance but most of these guys on here are running H-Beam rods. As an engine builder, I have to use what is the most common thing or throw it away. We don't refuse any work and we make it work. We ofcourse only machine what has to be taken off the rod. Check out Eagles notched rods! They just wack em off and don't even stretch the bolt first. Buy a set of there rods and stretch the bolts to the proper yield and you then have to buy rod bolts.
Yeah, I have seen some of the "pre clearanced" stuff............scary isn't it. :eek: Mine fit well, I am happy with how the short block went together. I did upgrade the bolts this year though. I know kind of overkill, but I wanted to put the best bolt in it, so I didn't have to worry at all. Good luck at the track today Bill.
CNC BLOCKS
10-16-2010, 12:13 PM
Put the lobe sep on the cam that is required and with any H-Beam rod you have to machine it. With the larger strokes, you have to remove more and more material. If you have a Pro Mod rod, you will have enough room but when do we use a Pro Mod? Everyone uses the common H-Beam. Even when you put a 5.7 stock GM rod into the stock GM block or any block, you have to nip the rod bolt. That is why GM used the 5.565 rod with the funny rod bolts. If your saying you got 3.875 rod with a 2.100 rod into the engine without machining, you must be running the lobe sep around 106? All our engines have the 110+ lobe seps and make very respectable power. Mark Pettit has a 434 of mine with Brodix Track 1 heads and the Brodix intake with the turlte I done on it and he foot brakes it with a 850 Ruppert carb and has been 9.36 @ 3200lbs. Does it all the time. Motor went 737 on my dyno @ 7000 rpm. Adds up pretty good. Ofcourse, I had to cut the H-Beam rod back to almost 4 threads just to get the cam in the engine. Even Jeffs engine with the new cam we had to notch the H-Beam rods to get the cam in. Maybe you guys are doing something GM could not do and a ton of engine builders have to do to the stock GM 5.7 rods just to run a flat tappet cam?
The rod we are using is the Callies rods as they seem to have a lot of cam clearance and we use a 108 lobe sep on most of street and strip builds. The .100 base cirlce works fine.
Awesome Bill
10-16-2010, 12:18 PM
The rod we are using is the Callies rods as they seem to have a lot of cam clearance and we use a 108 lobe sep on most of street and strip builds. The .100 base cirlce works fine.
I beam compstar might give it some more but don't buy it. H-Beam aint going unless you machine the 4 rods you have to, wonder what 4 rods you have to machine? I know the answer, just trying to see if you just cut them all. 108 lobe sep is the tightest I would go. If your getting it in there, you must be doing something.
lekid
10-23-2010, 05:24 PM
I received my new Crower Cam yesterday. It is there base circle for 3.75 stroker motor. It is 0.950 small base circle and my regular Solid Roller Hippo Crower lifters fitted in the block without touching the block.
lun40119
10-23-2010, 06:46 PM
cool............
CNC BLOCKS
10-27-2010, 04:23 PM
I beam compstar might give it some more but don't buy it. H-Beam aint going unless you machine the 4 rods you have to, wonder what 4 rods you have to machine? I know the answer, just trying to see if you just cut them all. 108 lobe sep is the tightest I would go. If your getting it in there, you must be doing something.
We just got done mocking up a 3.875 stroke with the Callies Compstar rods the cam has a .420 lobe on a 108 lobe sep with a .1000 base circle and there was .050 clearance on 1,2,5,6, rods as those are the closest one that I have ever seen.
vBulletin® v3.8.2, Copyright ©2000-2012, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.