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brad12oz
03-24-2008, 01:42 AM
I have a 357 small block chevy with 11.1 compression, dart iron eagle 200cc heads, performer rpm air gap intake, 4.10 gear, 2400 stall converter, 3400lb car, 700 carb, roller rockers. wondering if anyone knows how much improvement in performance i can expect by changing to a hydraulic roller cam over a hydraulic flat tappet? current cam is voodoo by lunati, 227 dur. int, 233 exh, .489 int lift, .504 exh lift. Hyd. roller will be similar in size. I know with the roller there is more area under the curve, i figure it will benefit the heads by more duration at the lower lift points. thanx for any advice.

Awesome Bill
03-25-2008, 11:54 AM
usually a good 10 hp is found. It really is not that much, but it is something to consider when they keep taking the heavy metals out of the oil that has to keep the flat tappet stuff from rubbing. Riding on a thin film of slick oil is pretty smooth. The roller does not really offer that much more on small stuff like yours but it is a better situation with being able to stabalize the valve train up to 6000-6500 with proper springs, retainers, locks, and push rods.

SUX 2BU
03-27-2008, 05:37 PM
About the modern oils, and their increasing lack of zinc and other metals for protection, what do you suggest to use? I recently read a great article about this in High Performance Pontiac and they suggested to use, amongst others, was Shell Rotella 15W40 diesel oil. It apparently does not have to have the reduced zinc levels like gasoline oils and is not harmful to use in a gas motor. GMPP makes an additive too for breaking in flat tappet motors, but supposedly has been discontinued.

want-a-be
03-28-2008, 01:26 AM
I like to use the moly based lube on all my metal to metal parts on my rebuilds. But...you don't need much. I use a VERY light coat. Almost to the point of not being able to see it. Then I use a drop or two of oil on top of that. DON"T use the moly lube on your cylinder walls or piston skirts. Unless you don't want your rings to seal that is...lol
Not had any problems with this method for break ins of cams. But I have heard the same thing about the Rotella oil.

Later, Don :cool:

WCRE

Awesome Bill
03-28-2008, 11:54 AM
The Rotella is the best oil on the market just for that cause. Compared to racing syn oils, its not only better, but will protect and make more power because the base does not start with 26% polymer!

SUX 2BU
03-28-2008, 04:44 PM
Well I'm sold. When I decide on a builder I'm going to ask if they have Rotella around for that purpose, if not I'll buy some myself. I think the article suggested the synth oils, but would you do dino oil instead? I'm not familiar enough with Rotella to know if it's available as both or not.

lun40119
03-28-2008, 11:58 PM
Bill........I know I have read a post here that you went indepth on syn race oils and the like. Valvoline VR1. Good, Bad, Why?? Also I think that Mobil still makes there fleet 15/40. I think that it is called Delvac. Good, Bad, Why. Not second guessing Rotella, I use it in my pull truck. I do run the VR1 in my chevelle, and have broke in several flat tappet solids, however always with the assistance of GM's E.O.S P#1052367. Thanks in advance, also from the other thread, that 357, what were the "ishes" on the cam. The combo makes ever-so familiar numbers :D Take care.

Awesome Bill
03-31-2008, 12:02 PM
The delvac is the same stuff. I do not use any synthecis. They all start with 25% polymere. JUNK filler. It is o.k to use it but it will unload the ring, take away from good ring seal @ higher rpms and cause bad things to happen. We use the 10w30 Rotella or the 15/40 if the customer cries like a baby because he is not using his 50w. The engine oil additives, or supplemnets are nothing but zinc, sulfur and a couple other extreme pressure agents. They are what the epa is taking out. The VR1 10/30 oil is no better. Its good oil but is not as good as the Rotella imo. We use the Pure Power 10/10 in all our engines when dyno testing along with Kelly's billet stainless steel oil filter, we actually make power with his oil filters when the bypass is plugged. Paper will not filter oil. All this stuff is pricey Pricey but so is bearings, rings etc. 10w30 Rot is something we come up with and works very well. 260/268 /106ls .630/.630, nothing special.

SUX 2BU
03-31-2008, 06:04 PM
Awesome info, AwesomeBill :D

Awesome Bill
04-01-2008, 11:25 AM
Sounds cool, let us know.