Bill, heard about Morel lifters??

[Dave F]

Have you heard about the new Morel lifters?? They claim to be able to run on both hydraulic and solid roller cams up to 7300 rpm for extended time, such as on a boat or circle track. Solid spring press having a limit of 220/550.

I was curious of your opinion on these.

PS should be starting the beast next weekend, for the first time since the rebuild.

DAVE

[Dave F]

I was a little vague in the above description.
These lifters are a hydraulic roller design. The point to these lifters, (the way I understand it) is to have the ability to run a solid roller cam with maintanence free of the hydraulic roller.
They boast 35hp over standard hydro roller lifters on the same hydro roller cam.

[brougham]

I know they make a good lifter but if this is true there on a winner I will be purchasing them for my engine I would like to hear more about these lifters and were to buy them from

[Dave F]

I hear they're pricey. Around $600 or so.

[Awesome Bill]

They are better only because you can run a little more seat pressure so you can run a little more rpm. Don't get your hope to far, they still run out way before time to run a really agressive lift. It is the same as putting the titanium valves in your engine like we done, over stainless. They are better but they are only going to help a little more. The hydraulic version is still just that, hydraulic!

[brougham]

With the lifters do u know the part number and where i can buy them from. I also have heard that lunati lifters are made buy morel is this true. Has any one used a rev kit and do they work as good as thay say

[Awesome Bill]

Lunati lifters are made by Morel as well as PBM and a ton of others. I have never had a failure with any Morel lifter and that says something. A rev kit can make more power but only proves you have another weak link.

A top of the line Valve spring like PAC, (Peterson), NexTek, (Manley) and a lot of others, are like gold. You can't buy a good enough quality valve spring along with a very ridgid push rod. Those old days of .060/.080 wall 5/16 and 3/8" stuff with todays new and improved every valve train is over.

These new ½ and heard of ¾ dual taper wall and taper wall parts has pushed the Pro Stock engines over 10,000 rpm and will maintain a very good life considering. Bracket engines we build can run 2 years of pounding without service or 400 laps with just checking your pressures on the springs with no problems. I know I will hear about 100-150 ¼ mile laps are tops let alone 1/8 mile stuff. But, we have them out there. If you feel the need to pop the lifters out every 100-150-200 passes is great insurance but the valve springs should be changed out along with the lifters.

Unless it is a real defect, and you do not hit the lifter with a hammer, or the valve train has been compromised, it is not supposed to fail. Even non hippo style lifters. The lack of seat pressure threw out the duration and lift is what damages the wheel and cam. I have seen the back side of the lobe peeled right into from lofting like it was a tire in the mud leaving its track. The front side was smooth and clean? Why? Another day. Keep the lifter in place on the cam and your pretty much safe unless it is a real defect and I have had that happen on the first pull of High end engines and that is a real pain in the butt. Everything has to be taken right down and redone! Hate that when it happens and then the lifter people say, "its happens" Welcome to the world of race engine builders.

Either way, the hyd roller lifter no matter what anyone says, is very limited if run with a small amount of preload. If I do run a hyd roller lifter, I do things a little different than most. The hyd part was never intended to be raced like we are pushing them. Yes there are great strides on them but they are not in Pro Stock or Good Bracket engines for a reason, they are limited and the dyno will prove it when it quits making power around 6000 rpm or the valve train gets stupid. Lightweight titanium parts help a ton with rpm. So whether it is Morel, Crower, Comp, Crane etc, everyone makes a pretty good lifter and will live with good valve springs and keeping the rpm under 8000. Abuse it and loose it. Everything has its limits and price for such use.

[brougham]

hi bill can you help me out with the new morel hyd roller lifters that claim to take more spring pressure more rpm .750 wheel steel bodyed i am chasseing the part number to suit a sbc dart block small base circle cam and who can supply them as no one in australia hase them thanks for your help

[Awesome Bill]

I can shoot them over to you, we have them now. You can pm me and I will let you know everything about them.

[cstraub]

The lifters have been in development for a couple of years now. In some testing Morel found a wink link in the hyd roller design. They addressed it and found that with 200 to 225" seat and around 525#'s of open pressure they had a hyd roller lifter that would take aggressive profiles, some street solid roller profiles, and live at 7300 rpm. These are meant for marine and serious street engines.

[Awesome Bill]

We dyno tested a street heat 632 with these lifters and the RPM went flat around 6000 rpm but we had good smooth power right up to that and that was with the heavy 2.3" intake valve. Did not make any more power and is very hard to see 5-10 hp @ 6000. The engine was for a customer in the U.K. and is strickly a street engine using pump gas. 10.5:1 real compression, 93 Exxon, 35° total timing, BMF 385 fully cnc'd heads, 1150 Awesome Dominator, custom dyno tuned, 854hp @ 5900 and 828 ftlbs torque @ 4400. This is usually what we make with the exact same stuff using Comps Hyd roller set up. I can't say if it really made more? Most likely they just have a little better control on the valve. We used 175# on the seat and 475# open @ .700 lift. Worked well and does pull well but can't really see where we done any better. Most of these engines make a REAL 850hp with just over 825ftlbs of torque. So take it from there. Maybe if we spun this this up with more camshaft, it would do better, but we rate these for real long life street driving.