snakeeater1968

[snakeeater1968]

hello i'm also new to the site and have a few question about some engine comboes and tuneing stuff...like.. i have a small block chevy 350 +.060 i just bought a set of pro 1 platinum 215 heads and now i'm trying to find a good streetable manifold that will suport the large 1206 felpro gaskets it calls for...any sugestions on that would be great i curently have a performer rpm manifold on it... aslo i'm finding the autolite spark plugs like to foul out when i run it on the street..any sugestions on a spark plugg?? i have a complete msd igniton w/ pro billet distributor...i also run a m-21 4 spd.. i take it to the drag strip once a month... i do drive it some on the street... i have a 284h extream energy cam and 1.6 roller rockers and 4.10 gears...are the dart intakes worth the $400 or should i portmatch my performer rpm intake to fit the heads or maybe even run an edelbrock vic Jr or super victor intake?? i'd like to know what has been working well with these heads and maybe some does and don'ts
thanks for your time

Snakeeater

[Dart Vader]

Hey, welcome to the forums!

This thread has been moved over to the Chevy engine's discussion area, since it's primary purpose is to discuss your setup. It should get more responses there.

[lun40119]

I have got a 7531 Team G on mine. It seems to work well. If you are fowling plugs, something isn't right. Either you are dead fat, or the plug is too cold. Try AR 3935 or R5671-8. Also how much timing are you running. Initial and Total.

Jake

[snakeeater1968]

when you put the team g manifold on, what intake gasket did you use and did you port match it to the heads...also what type of cam shaft are you running?? i have a extream energy com cam 284h with 1.6 rockers...inital timeing i'm running 20 degrees and total timing i'm running 37 degrees i'm at total advance at 2,300 rpm should i back that off a little to like 2,800 rpm?? are both of those spark pluggs autolite??? and i've noticed that everyone askes about spark plugs why is that??? when i go to the parts store what cars should i say that these plugs came from...the auto lites in it now are a very cold plug...and i'm running a 700cfm mec holley with 72 in the front and 78 in the back....it makes power...but it never realy pulls hard if you know what i mean....
thanks
snake eater

[lun40119]

All of my suggestions are merely from things that I have run across while working on my very limited application. Im not a professional and have never claimed to be. So take my suggestions with a grain of salt. They may not be right for every application.

When I installed the 215's on mine, I was replacing a set of Sportsman II heads. I dynoed before and after, and picked up hp and torque everywhere in my operating range. I portmatched the intake and the head to a 1206. I started out running AR 3934s and switched to AR 3935's after a comment that Bill made about running the 3935's in his race engine when he didn't have his normal plugs. Then I switched to the NGK's when I found them at VSI for really cheap.

My cam is from lunati. 292/302 256/268 at .050 .591/.609 on a 106 lsa. I am not really sure what rpms you are using that thing at but I know that mine didn't make peak tq until 5200 rpms with that cam. I am at 12.5:1 comp and on race fuel too. I run initial at 28 and 38 total. But I use an 8 degree start retard. I am running a Holley Ultra HP 750. This is a mostly street driven car.


What do you mean "everyone is asking bout plugs"

R5671-8 is NGK and AR3935 is Autolite.

It might not pull hard because that head is going to want lots of rpm on that cube.


Hope this helps

Jake

[Trmnatr]

hello i'm also new to the site and have a few question about some engine comboes and tuneing stuff...like.. i have a small block chevy 350 +.060 i just bought a set of pro 1 platinum 215 heads and now i'm trying to find a good streetable manifold that will suport the large 1206 felpro gaskets it calls for...any sugestions on that would be great i curently have a performer rpm manifold on it... aslo i'm finding the autolite spark plugs like to foul out when i run it on the street..any sugestions on a spark plugg?? i have a complete msd igniton w/ pro billet distributor...i also run a m-21 4 spd.. i take it to the drag strip once a month... i do drive it some on the street... i have a 284h extream energy cam and 1.6 roller rockers and 4.10 gears...are the dart intakes worth the $400 or should i portmatch my performer rpm intake to fit the heads or maybe even run an edelbrock vic Jr or super victor intake?? i'd like to know what has been working well with these heads and maybe some does and don'ts
thanks for your time

Snakeeater

The AR autolite plugs should not foul out. Make sure you have a main ground cable running to each head as the plugs ground out in the head and I have seen spark plugs isolated from ground with aluminum heads

From a known good ground at battery with the ohm meter on, ground resistance should not be higher than .4 from the ground to the threads where the plug screws in - As a matter of fact you want it .1 - I suggest running a main ground wire to each head first, its cheap and may solve your problemsThe Dart single plane has smaller runners like the victor jr but is designed like a super victor, kind of in between the two - I like the Dart intake, Edelbrock Vistor E and the Super Victor

[snakeeater1968]

The AR autolite plugs should not foul out. Make sure you have a main ground cable running to each head as the plugs ground out in the head and I have seen spark plugs isolated from ground with aluminum heads

From a known good ground at battery with the ohm meter on, ground resistance should not be higher than .4 from the ground to the threads where the plug screws in - As a matter of fact you want it .1 - I suggest running a main ground wire to each head first, its cheap and may solve your problemsThe Dart single plane has smaller runners like the victor jr but is designed like a super victor, kind of in between the two - I like the Dart intake, Edelbrock Vistor E and the Super Victor
thanks for the advice i'll look into the ground wire...i've never heard of that befor but it makes complete sense maybe you could send me an email on what exactly the ground wire consits of and from where to where to mount it....also i saw that you run alot of 215 heads on smaller motors i think you said they were 327 and 350 motors and high rpm motors...I take my small block up to 7,200 rps at the track and would like to know what size carb you have been running and what the power valve is and jet sizes...also what kind of timing are you running or what kind of curve...it's my understanding that the timing has alot to do whith making the larger heads work on the smaller cubic inch engines....i was fouling plugs on a regular basis but i was afraid to jet it down because i jetted it up to get rid of a stuble and help it to excellerate on the bottom end....i think now that it may have been more of a timing issue...it wasn't running hot after i put the new heads on it.. now it runs like 210 to 230 hot...i have a new aluminum radiator on it's way now...but it had an ss 396 3 core radiator in it...paint is flaking off on it now telling me it's getting way to hot....i drive it on the street and need it to run cool...like 180 or 190 cool...i'm only running 20 degrees inital and 37 toal timing so i can't figure out why i'm running hot...:(
thanks for your input

any and all suggestions...would be great from anyone
i'm still learning and know that i have a long way to go so any coments on any of this would be apresheated

Snake eater

[Trmnatr]

thanks for the advice i'll look into the ground wire...i've never heard of that befor but it makes complete sense maybe you could send me an email on what exactly the ground wire consits of and from where to where to mount it....also i saw that you run alot of 215 heads on smaller motors i think you said they were 327 and 350 motors and high rpm motors...I take my small block up to 7,200 rps at the track and would like to know what size carb you have been running and what the power valve is and jet sizes...also what kind of timing are you running or what kind of curve...it's my understanding that the timing has alot to do whith making the larger heads work on the smaller cubic inch engines....i was fouling plugs on a regular basis but i was afraid to jet it down because i jetted it up to get rid of a stuble and help it to excellerate on the bottom end....i think now that it may have been more of a timing issue...it wasn't running hot after i put the new heads on it.. now it runs like 210 to 230 hot...i have a new aluminum radiator on it's way now...but it had an ss 396 3 core radiator in it...paint is flaking off on it now telling me it's getting way to hot....i drive it on the street and need it to run cool...like 180 or 190 cool...i'm only running 20 degrees inital and 37 toal timing so i can't figure out why i'm running hot...:(
thanks for your input

any and all suggestions...would be great from anyone
i'm still learning and know that i have a long way to go so any coments on any of this would be apresheated

Snake eater

I would never think about the 230 Iron Eagle heads on a 4.030" bore engine, the only head with a big runner i would use like this on a 4.030" bore engine is a Dart '220' head which can be as big as 240cc's

The 215 Iron Eagle/Pro 1 will work great at high rpm on 327's and 7,500-ish on 350's - The Dart '220' head will work great on high rpm {7,600-8,200rpm} 350's

Timing depends on engine, I ALWAYS run locked out timing and most of the time i use a BG750 further modified by us or a CNC's main body with a 1.401" venturii with a .160 booster - All our motors and customers engines have run a full season with AR134 plugs {i run alot of iron heads} - In my opinion a race gas engine iron heads make more HP BUT on a 10:1-10.5:1 street engine aluminum i feel will make more power due to the fact your pushing the limits with a cast iron head

Most peoples problems on carburetors are they dont have enough squirter, Dont be scared to test with as big as .056" squirters - On all carburetors we modify for engines we build we ALWAYS start with .045" squirters with hollow pump screws

Mount a GROUND CABLE to the back of each head and run them to a known good ground on the frame that measures .4 ohm or less from the ground on the battery with key off, if a race motor two ground wires per head. [B]Before you do the ground wires, with the key off measure ground resistance from the negative to the spark plug threads and if it shows more than .4 you have a problem for sure, i would prefer it to be .1

NOTE: The 215 heads should be fine as long as your valve lift is .600"-ish - Here is my OPINION why, You cant get peak port velocity in my OPINION until you reach MAX FLOW @ .6xx" valve lift so this is why i suggest .600" valve lift after you take away lash if its a solid cam

If your not pushing .600" lift a set of 200cc platinum heads will WAKE the engine up. In my opinion the NEW 200cc Platinum heads are better than the old 215cc Iron Eagle heads

Just my $.02

[lun40119]

Any luck with the carb mods, and the new plugs???????? Your heads will work. Don't condemn them.

ttyl

Jake

[snakeeater1968]

Any luck with the carb mods, and the new plugs???????? Your heads will work. Don't condemn them.

ttyl

Jake

hey jake,

i ordered the squirters yesterday they shold be in today, i'll put the new plugs in with the squirters... i did get the ar3935's and the store that ordered the squirters said that i couldn't get 41's i had to get the 40's or the 42's so i got the 42 i figure that i can adjust the cam if the squirters to big... do you have the cam set on one or two...i'm reading that with an idle of 900 or more that it may run better on the #2 setting on the cam... i have a pink cam in it now with 3 settings... i tried it on the # 2 and it did help the stumble a little... don't worry i won't give up on the heads....i'm in it to win it and one way or another will make them work if i have to sleep on the couch for as long as it takes so be it...LOL I like the heads...they are totaly different then the cammel humps and i can tell they are going to run great...with a little fine tuning...i read the artical from vader it was very well written and institeful as to whats going on in the runner and how to improve velosity of the air and make HP and TQ...it was on GoFastnews.com GFN portingschool#7 Port volume i'm sure that you have already read it....i printed it out to reread and study... i admit i'm still learning and have a long way to go... you've been a big help along with don...thanks

[lun40119]

If you ever get the spare cash order a trick kit from Holley. They supply several squirter choices as well as gaskets, clips, cams, and pump diaphrams. Holley part number 37-933 is the one that I get for the 4150 style carb. It is a good kit to get you started with tuning. Take care

Jake

[snakeeater1968]

If you ever get the spare cash order a trick kit from Holley. They supply several squirter choices as well as gaskets, clips, cams, and pump diaphrams. Holley part number 37-933 is the one that I get for the 4150 style carb. It is a good kit to get you started with tuning. Take care

Jake

you were spot on to change the squirter and not the main jets...my plugs are golden brown the car runns good and has alot more power now... the stuble is gone and i just have a little bog with the secondarys

thanks alot

Snake eater