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BERT
12-01-2008, 04:20 AM
Wow my TH350 case exploded on my first pass with my new motor in the nova. But it gets better, the drive line folded into two pieces and tore threw the floor, hit my fire extinguisher wich in turn smashed into my shoulder,(just brused).
I had just got my 12 bolt together with strange 35 spline axles, pro spool, C clip eliminators, and new 4.56 US pro gear R&P. After the mishap the rear of the car is sitting about 3" low on the drivers side. After further inspection I noticed that the spring perches are no longer parallel to each other and appear to have rotated in the housing. The pinion angle is sitting at about 20 degrees up from where it was before. Has any one ever seen the axle tubes which I beleve are pressed in and plug welded into the housing rotate? What can be done to prevent this from happening?:eek:

mach1charlie
12-03-2008, 07:05 PM
jack it back in place and weld tubes to casting, stick weld it. Know any pipe welders?

CWA1976
12-08-2008, 10:30 PM
This happened to me once. If you can get the pinion pulled back down where it belongs, be sure to check camber and toe on rear wheels before welding. Put a good fillet weld between the tube and center section all the way around. Probably should use a nickel/cast iron rod.

Vince

us7race
12-09-2008, 01:20 AM
I have an 8.5 GM 10 bolt. I drilled out the factory welds and redone them, I also welded all the way around both Axle tubes with a Good Lincoln Mig Wire Feed welder. So far no issue's. 2800Lbs 1.32 60' :)

lun40119
12-09-2008, 02:15 AM
I have an 8.5 GM 10 bolt. I drilled out the factory welds and redone them, I also welded all the way around both Axle tubes with a Good Lincoln Mig Wire Feed welder. So far no issue's. 2800Lbs 1.32 60' :)

Is this an S-10???????

want-a-be
12-10-2008, 06:01 AM
Do yourself a favor and go 9". You won't reget it. Eat the cost of what you have before that rear end eats the rest of your car.

jmo

Don

Awesome Bill
12-15-2008, 11:32 AM
Your tranny had no choice but to break, your rear end shifted, your drive shaft ,(stock most likely) folded like a tooth pick and your very lucky you did not get hurt real bad. Stock drive shafts with 1310 and 1330 u joints are junk. Nothing but 1350 joints with a good drive shaft should be used. They are only $349 brand new. Your mishap cost way more than that.

If you use a 9", you can throw away about 40hp. They are very costly when it comes to eating torque.

This is what happens when 40 year old differentials are used and not very much thought into the back half. Moser, Strange, DTS all make brand new 12 bolts that can handle just about anything you can throw at them. Purchase a new 12 bolt custom built for your application and put all your stuff into it. I will gaurantee your housing is junk. A 12 bolt or Dana 60 are the best rears in the business for making power work easier.

A 9" stock housing is junk. It is nothing but a stamped rolled tin can, they flex a ton in stock form. Now a nice Fab 9" is killer but still uses way more power to the wheel than any 12 bolt or Dana.

Being you still have good internal parts warrants using your stuff over and not having to scrap all those killer parts you have. Just put them into a good housing made for power.

lun40119
12-15-2008, 09:39 PM
I bought a Strange Dana 60, bolted it into my 67 chevelle, and have never thought about it again...............take that back, I change the 80/90 once a year :D


Edit: Oh yeah, I second Bill on the 1350's. Buy one you will see why.....

BERT
01-28-2009, 08:40 PM
Hello everyone and thanks for the responces to my issues. I just wanted to post what I ended up doing to fix my problems. I replced the th350 with a dedenbear case powerglide w/5500 stall converter,went to a 3.5x.083 w/1350s drive shaft, and changed the 12 bolt out for a chris alstons fab 9 with strange pro iron carrier, 35 spline race axles, spool, and willwood brakes. I think it should hold together now! I hope.... Thanks again!:D

Trmnatr
01-28-2009, 08:57 PM
Hello everyone and thanks for the responces to my issues. I just wanted to post what I ended up doing to fix my problems. I replced the th350 with a dedenbear case powerglide w/5500 stall converter,went to a 3.5x.083 w/1350s drive shaft, and changed the 12 bolt out for a chris alstons fab 9 with strange pro iron carrier, 35 spline race axles, spool, and willwood brakes. I think it should hold together now! I hope.... Thanks again!:D

Sounds good, let us know how it holds up !

Did you set your pinion angle ? What is it at ?

BERT
01-28-2009, 10:28 PM
I also installed a set of cal tracs and split mono springs. I have not set the pinion angle yet but I'm thinking it should be between 3 and 5 degrees negative. I'll give calvert a call and ask them how much spring wrap I should expect with there springs.

SUX 2BU
01-29-2009, 09:37 PM
Wow! Just 2 questions:

1. What kind of power and motor are you running to cause that kind of destruction
2. What kind of cash did that whole upgrade cost you? Sounds like you didn't cheap out!

BERT
01-29-2009, 10:40 PM
The upgrade cost about 8.8k (trans, torque converter, drive line, rear end housing, axles, brakes, carrier, caltracs, caltrac springs, shifter) . My motor is a 414 small block that was dynoed at 624 HP 530 foot pounds or so of torque.

lun40119
01-30-2009, 02:52 AM
What happened to the 355 you first referenced in the other post. Or is this a different car.

BERT
01-30-2009, 01:39 PM
:DI still have the 355, I pulled it out of the nova, Its still in pretty good shape, Just needs a freshening by the looks of it. I put the 414 in the same nova along with everthing else. The nova is a 20 footer but looks aren't everything. If I can get it all to go down the track, I'll be able to run DGAS with this set up. (heads up)