two bolt main ?

[bogger]

What the max hps you guys would put to a stock two bolt main chevy block? some one was sayin there good to about 600 hp and i have a hard time beliving it or i guess i wouldnt try it.

[bogger]

put it in the wrong spot oops

[CNC BLOCKS]

What the max hps you guys would put to a stock two bolt main chevy block? some one was sayin there good to about 600 hp and i have a hard time beliving it or i guess i wouldnt try it.

Here are a some good links to look over

http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=58964

http://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=652566

http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?p=264731#post264731

[bogger]

thanks very helpful

[CNC BLOCKS]

Here is another interesting link to look over

http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3798&highlight=400

[Trmnatr]

What the max hps you guys would put to a stock two bolt main chevy block? some one was sayin there good to about 600 hp and i have a hard time beliving it or i guess i wouldnt try it.

600hp :eek:

With splayed caps, filled with Hardblok maybe 675hp with super light parts and premium parts with a select block,,,

Why not buy a Dart SHP from the man above, Carl AKA "CNC BLOCKS" ?

[CNC BLOCKS]

600hp :eek:

With splayed caps, filled with Hardblok maybe 675hp with super light parts and premium parts with a select block,,,

Why not buy a Dart SHP from the man above, Carl AKA "CNC BLOCKS" ?

Thanks Butch

Our best 010 block with billet caps and an strap on the rear main we only rate at 600 horse and of coarse it has to pass a sonic test first!!!
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y276/CNCBLOCKS/SPLAYEDCAPS020.jpg

[lun40119]

I have got my new SHP block, really a nice looking block. Still has to go to the machine shop, but as far as I can tell......looks good to me.

[bogger]

o i forgot to say thats if you put studs in the mains.

[Awesome Bill]

When using stock blocks, there is no real right or wrong answer, there are just opinions. Stock blocks were never designed for Hi-performance racing but they were used for it. Until about 15 years ago, that is all we had. Before everyone having a CNC machine, we all used a gauge and expertise. If you want to use a stock 2 bolt main for 500 hp you do it. If you don't, change it. No one really knows what they will or will not handle. But, I do know what to use them for and not what to use them in! Stock engines under 500 running on the street is o.k. A nice new 4 bolt you can also run what you like. But now with DART making the SHP block, you can even get the CNC boyz to give you a block, fully race prep it and then claim a stupid # for HP cheaper than the new SHP block. This block is a final answer to all these claims and give no reason not to use it over some old block fitted with new shoes.

Bringing up this article again really shows a real character and does nothing but start a huge discussion about opinions. Everyone has their opinions and some are good. But for our CNC block experts, this is nothing but bull____! After years these guys still think they are the only ones who do machine work and their word is final and post addresses so you can still see they tried to make everyone believe the cap caused oil pressure problems, or it walked because it was a 2 bolt main was silly. That block failed because of 1 of 2 things, the fasteners were junk, or the engine had some bad harmonics that most likely someone bolted to the rear of the crank, the picture so perfectly posted proved it. It was only when I suggested that is when the storm came. Most of the real people agreed it was true what I said and mentioned it. Well maybe so and this or that, you can blame all you want.

Some people will still want you to build something that does not have all the newer componets and still run the old stock blocks. Like I said before, the Rambler, Pontiac, Olds, and Buicks are still making more torque than any small block ever done and they are still running.

You can put all the 4 bolt splayed caps on a block you want and you still have a stock block. DART seen an area that could use some help and has done a killer job with the SHP blocks and the CNC boyz will complain now about machined surfaces post their hmmmm like they have accused Dart of doing something they should of notified the public about before DART done it, or like they have better equipment with precise accuracy and can even now fix this block than DART. What Nonsense. DARTS equipment is better than anything I or they have for final end production that is acceptable. Trust me, it has more to do with the assembly and choices in the internal products and then the final user than something that has splayed caps installed on it. Don't get me wrong, I put spalyed caps on anything I can and push that for any build requiring it. I don't put it on every single block or engine we do.

How many times has you heard of brand new DART, BRODIX, MERLIN stuff being broken and had problems right out of the gate? You know more times than people running stock stuff. We have all heard it. Like I said before you can give some people a bowling ball in a sand box and they will break it. Don't mean anything at all. Engines machined and assembled for the proper combination will surive. If you use them for something else or exceed what the doctor ordered, this will always lead another direction. But to just blame the engine failure on a 2 bolt or 4 bolt block is absurd. More than likely it is people who don't have any way of checking new stuff that is machined wrong than anything else. Lets just put this dead horse to rest! Use what you like but don't blame anyone when it comes apart for some reason and most likely not the real one!

[CNC BLOCKS]

When using stock blocks, there is no real right or wrong answer, there are just opinions. Stock blocks were never designed for Hi-performance racing but they were used for it. Until about 15 years ago, that is all we had. Before everyone having a CNC machine, we all used a gauge and expertise. If you want to use a stock 2 bolt main for 500 hp you do it. If you don't, change it. No one really knows what they will or will not handle. But, I do know what to use them for and not what to use them in! Stock engines under 500 running on the street is o.k. A nice new 4 bolt you can also run what you like. But now with DART making the SHP block, you can even get the CNC boyz to give you a block, fully race prep it and then claim a stupid # for HP cheaper than the new SHP block. This block is a final answer to all these claims and give no reason not to use it over some old block fitted with new shoes.

Bringing up this article again really shows a real character and does nothing but start a huge discussion about opinions. Everyone has their opinions and some are good. But for our CNC block experts, this is nothing but bull____! After years these guys still think they are the only ones who do machine work and their word is final and post addresses so you can still see they tried to make everyone believe the cap caused oil pressure problems, or it walked because it was a 2 bolt main was silly. That block failed because of 1 of 2 things, the fasteners were junk, or the engine had some bad harmonics that most likely someone bolted to the rear of the crank, the picture so perfectly posted proved it. It was only when I suggested that is when the storm came. Most of the real people agreed it was true what I said and mentioned it. Well maybe so and this or that, you can blame all you want.

Some people will still want you to build something that does not have all the newer componets and still run the old stock blocks. Like I said before, the Rambler, Pontiac, Olds, and Buicks are still making more torque than any small block ever done and they are still running.

You can put all the 4 bolt splayed caps on a block you want and you still have a stock block. DART seen an area that could use some help and has done a killer job with the SHP blocks and the CNC boyz will complain now about machined surfaces post their hmmmm like they have accused Dart of doing something they should of notified the public about before DART done it, or like they have better equipment with precise accuracy and can even now fix this block than DART. What Nonsense. DARTS equipment is better than anything I or they have for final end production that is acceptable. Trust me, it has more to do with the assembly and choices in the internal products and then the final user than something that has splayed caps installed on it. Don't get me wrong, I put spalyed caps on anything I can and push that for any build requiring it. I don't put it on every single block or engine we do.

How many times has you heard of brand new DART, BRODIX, MERLIN stuff being broken and had problems right out of the gate? You know more times than people running stock stuff. We have all heard it. Like I said before you can give some people a bowling ball in a sand box and they will break it. Don't mean anything at all. Engines machined and assembled for the proper combination will surive. If you use them for something else or exceed what the doctor ordered, this will always lead another direction. But to just blame the engine failure on a 2 bolt or 4 bolt block is absurd. More than likely it is people who don't have any way of checking new stuff that is machined wrong than anything else. Lets just put this dead horse to rest! Use what you like but don't blame anyone when it comes apart for some reason and most likely not the real one!

Bill

I see your backing up on HP level on the 2 bolt mains as you said there good for 800 horse which is bullshyt and here is the link on that http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3798&highlight=400
And read what Curtis Boggs wrote about you in this link as I find that interesting:p:.

Never said Dart did any thing wrong!! And if you think a line bored finish is better then a line honed finsh you must not be able to line hone either.

I am not the only one the can machine blocks MR. AWESOME but it does appear that I am can machine blocks to a closer tolerance they you can if your still using fixtures as this is 2008 and I stepped up to the bat 8 years ago and bought what I thought was top notch CNC equipment and if Hendricks is using HAAS CNC machines to there work I quess my HAAS should do just as good a job as theirs:D:

If your just throwing a boring bar on the decks and calling that good work compared to blue print boring the cylinders, lifter bores, decks, cam tunnels ETC like we do and if you want to compare shop to shop for blue printing blocks bring it on.

800 hose on a 2 bolt main come on get a life Bill as thats how you get repeat work I am sure and most guys that post like this don't have the ability to install splayed caps and making statements like there good for 800 horse :D: because of their shorty workman ship LOL

I can see why you must of got booted of the speed talk:)

Boy I can tell you have a problem with guys machining blocks with CNC machines and beacuse you think your doing a good job that fine but it not as good as what we do to a block thas for sure.

Whats interesting Bill Cannon this is the only site your on why is that ??

And with all the bullshyt you spread I sure get alot of emails and PM's about you.

Again a line hone finish is better then any line bore finish go over this link
http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=462&highlight=line+honing

Bill it interesting you are intimidated by guys with CNC machine shops I can tell, Well aleast you really keep me laughing:

[CNC BLOCKS]

When using stock blocks, there is no real right or wrong answer, there are just opinions. Stock blocks were never designed for Hi-performance racing but they were used for it. Until about 15 years ago, that is all we had. Before everyone having a CNC machine, we all used a gauge and expertise. If you want to use a stock 2 bolt main for 500 hp you do it. If you don't, change it. No one really knows what they will or will not handle. But, I do know what to use them for and not what to use them in! Stock engines under 500 running on the street is o.k. A nice new 4 bolt you can also run what you like. But now with DART making the SHP block, you can even get the CNC boyz to give you a block, fully race prep it and then claim a stupid # for HP cheaper than the new SHP block. This block is a final answer to all these claims and give no reason not to use it over some old block fitted with new shoes.

Bringing up this article again really shows a real character and does nothing but start a huge discussion about opinions. Everyone has their opinions and some are good. But for our CNC block experts, this is nothing but bull____! After years these guys still think they are the only ones who do machine work and their word is final and post addresses so you can still see they tried to make everyone believe the cap caused oil pressure problems, or it walked because it was a 2 bolt main was silly. That block failed because of 1 of 2 things, the fasteners were junk, or the engine had some bad harmonics that most likely someone bolted to the rear of the crank, the picture so perfectly posted proved it. It was only when I suggested that is when the storm came. Most of the real people agreed it was true what I said and mentioned it. Well maybe so and this or that, you can blame all you want.

Some people will still want you to build something that does not have all the newer componets and still run the old stock blocks. Like I said before, the Rambler, Pontiac, Olds, and Buicks are still making more torque than any small block ever done and they are still running.

You can put all the 4 bolt splayed caps on a block you want and you still have a stock block. DART seen an area that could use some help and has done a killer job with the SHP blocks and the CNC boyz will complain now about machined surfaces post their hmmmm like they have accused Dart of doing something they should of notified the public about before DART done it, or like they have better equipment with precise accuracy and can even now fix this block than DART. What Nonsense. DARTS equipment is better than anything I or they have for final end production that is acceptable. Trust me, it has more to do with the assembly and choices in the internal products and then the final user than something that has splayed caps installed on it. Don't get me wrong, I put spalyed caps on anything I can and push that for any build requiring it. I don't put it on every single block or engine we do.

How many times has you heard of brand new DART, BRODIX, MERLIN stuff being broken and had problems right out of the gate? You know more times than people running stock stuff. We have all heard it. Like I said before you can give some people a bowling ball in a sand box and they will break it. Don't mean anything at all. Engines machined and assembled for the proper combination will surive. If you use them for something else or exceed what the doctor ordered, this will always lead another direction. But to just blame the engine failure on a 2 bolt or 4 bolt block is absurd. More than likely it is people who don't have any way of checking new stuff that is machined wrong than anything else. Lets just put this dead horse to rest! Use what you like but don't blame anyone when it comes apart for some reason and most likely not the real one!

Bill

I have been machining blocks for 36 years now and I have all the old BHJ fixtures that I don't use any more and I can tell you this if they were that good I would have saved myself 200 thousand dollars on new equipment

Here is a good example of what we do, We had a new Brodix block raised cam tunnel 9.500 deck come in the CNC shop 2 weeks ago and probe it out twice and found on the odd side that the cylinders from intake to exhaust were off .013 which is Y location and we sent the block back to Brodix and they called and are building another block.

Question????This is something you would have never picked up on because you have no way to qualify a block before you start on it. Correct

We just had 2 blocks from Joe Gibbs Racing we ran though the CNC machine and and we found the decks right on and one cylinder was off .0015 as there blocks after they are machined go through a CMM machine to be quailified. And we have run blocks we have machined through a CMM machine to make sure evrything was being machined to blue print.

Here is a link to look over Enjoy:D:D
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=93124

[Awesome Bill]

Frank you sound like a little girl with your statements. I never said anything would work forever up there, and these guys don't expect it to if they use stuff that was never made for it. and like I have said along with other people, I have used 2 bolt blocks, (400 only), used a ton of nitrous in my opinion (300hp shot) and the block being filled ofcourse stayed together and never hurt the mains. I have only seen a few caps break, most #2 where the most flex is in any crankshaft. I would not build something like that again if you paid me. What we done in the 80's and early 90's was what we did because we did not have a ton of customers with big bucks and new style blocks like we have now. Frank you know is cost $1500.00 to fully race prep a block with steel billet splayed caps, deck it, bore and hone with plates, cam bearings and freeze plugs. Maybe a fill job ¾ way. Most shops won't touch this for under $2000.00 and you still have an engine that will keep the mains in it but most likely will split a cylinder wall. Put a DART LITTLE M in it now and you got something. Its just not worth in to take the risk with power levels over 1000 hp with just a small shot of NOS.

HP has become a lot easier to make forcing us to use nothing but DART BLOCKS on every true racing engine we do. So I have seen my share of DART BLOCKS.

The Haas machine are a very good machine. Unfortunately, I purchases a fully load F68A Rottler 2 years ago with every option you could purchase including probing. So as far as CNC equipment, you may have a little more time with the HAAS, but CNC has been on my Bridgeports for over 20 years XY&Z. Not to much to figure out there just adding the fourth axis for turning the block and getting used to the Windows running over G code. The Rottler is a very nice machine and I won't say anything bad about it. We are getting ready to purchase another RMC40 or 50. That will happen this year for sure. So enough said about that. I 2 have BHJ fixturing, who dosent? I do see you like tuting your own horn there about how you do this and that. Seriously, anyone who thinks putting splayed caps on as many blocks as you claim to do don't sell to many really nice blocks like the DART stuff. I only use DART blocks for every engine over 600 hp period. I do run the Street Heat Stuff with the NEW GM 4 Bolt blocks that I know will handle it.

As far as probing the block and finding .013 off after the probing cycle, I would of just bored off the blueprint and saved a ton of time and shipping. .013" with a bore center would do nothing for power if you can bore off a blueprint like you say you do and you would have had plenty of cylinder wall left for anything up to a 4.185 bore.

Here is one really nice thought, how do you know when your CNC is off? You actually could be maching every block out of specs and you would never know it. You trust the machine to be accurate and can't check it. Especially if that thing is as old as you say it is? You can check blood with a computer now and never see live bacteria, you have to look at it under a microscope with a human eye. I will tell you I trust DARTS machining process a ton better than anything anyone else says.

As far as honing a cylinder or putting clearance on mains, rods, cams etc only needs to be as close as good and won't hurt anything. Fred from Donovon says, "the worst thing anyone has ever done is to make .0001 available for the normal guy to check with" Buy the way I probed one of their blocks not long ago and on every corner, bore center and lifter bore, it was with in .001, when I called him to let him know, he said he needed a nice call like that. People get to interested in .0005 to .0001, it really does not make a difference on mains, rods, cam etc as long as you stay over the minimum that you know from years of work that actually works. If you feel you need .0001 to make it work, good for you, keep doing it. But the power you make won't see anything nor will the long jevity of it.

I really don't care what other people say about honing or boring, with speeds and feeds, I can make the bore look like a mirror as you say the GM stuff looks like.

I only have time for 1 board to work with plus take care of updates on my own site and have to get up @ 5:00 a.m. to do that. I am TOO BUSY TO TAKE CARE OF 10 SITES AND LISTEN TO ALL THE BULL____ . I would rather do 1 thing the best than do 10 marginally. That is the same logic I use with all my race engines. So blame me for not being on your SPEEDTALK forum all you want, I have good sound advice to give and people seem to want to hear it. These are only my experiences with what we have found works.

If Joe Gibbs has to send out his blocks to you to be qualified, something is wrong here. They have one of the most state of the art maching facilities there is? Even if they did send these to you to qualify after they had them done somewhere else smells really funny. Then ofcourse your 10 year old or however old it is picks up .0015 from side to side when a CMM could not put it right makes me think your older CNC is off. I can get that closer than that with an older deck height gauge and a mill!

Post your web sites to check out for the novis's who enjoy learning 1st to 6th grade stuff, I have been out of College for 20 plug years. Heres a thought, lets just post for people to learn from who really need a just a little advice. Keep your opinions about others, mainly me, to yourself and we might help someone who is not so smart as ofcourse you and I seem to be?

[CNC BLOCKS]

Frank



As far as probing the block and finding .013 off after the probing cycle, I would of just bored off the blueprint and saved a ton of time and shipping. .013" with a bore center would do nothing for power if you can bore off a blueprint like you say you do and you would have had plenty of cylinder wall left for anything up to a 4.185 bore.

Here is one really nice thought, how do you know when your CNC is off? You actually could be maching every block out of specs and you would never know it. You trust the machine to be accurate and can't check it. Especially if that thing is as old as you say it is? You can check blood with a computer now and never see live bacteria, you have to look at it under a microscope with a human eye. I will tell you I trust DARTS machining process a ton better than anything anyone else says.

As far as honing a cylinder or putting clearance on mains, rods, cams etc only needs to be as close as good and won't hurt anything. Fred from Donovon says, "the worst thing anyone has ever done is to make .0001 available for the normal guy to check with" Buy the way I probed one of their blocks not long ago and on every corner, bore center and lifter bore, it was with in .001, when I called him to let him know, he said he needed a nice call like that. People get to interested in .0005 to .0001, it really does not make a difference on mains, rods, cam etc as long as you stay over the minimum that you know from years of work that actually works. If you feel you need .0001 to make it work, good for you, keep doing it. But the power you make won't see anything nor will the long jevity of it.

I really don't care what other people say about honing or boring, with speeds and feeds, I can make the bore look like a mirror as you say the GM stuff looks like.

I only have time for 1 board to work with plus take care of updates on my own site and have to get up @ 5:00 a.m. to do that. I am TOO BUSY TO TAKE CARE OF 10 SITES AND LISTEN TO ALL THE BULL____ . I would rather do 1 thing the best than do 10 marginally. That is the same logic I use with all my race engines. So blame me for not being on your SPEEDTALK forum all you want, I have good sound advice to give and people seem to want to hear it. These are only my experiences with what we have found works.

If Joe Gibbs has to send out his blocks to you to be qualified, something is wrong here. They have one of the most state of the art maching facilities there is? Even if they did send these to you to qualify after they had them done somewhere else smells really funny. Then ofcourse your 10 year old or however old it is picks up .0015 from side to side when a CMM could not put it right makes me think your older CNC is off. I can get that closer than that with an older deck height gauge and a mill!

Post your web sites to check out for the novis's who enjoy learning 1st to 6th grade stuff, I have been out of College for 20 plug years. Heres a thought, lets just post for people to learn from who really need a just a little advice. Keep your opinions about others, mainly me, to yourself and we might help someone who is not so smart as ofcourse you and I seem to be?


Who the hell is Frank???


Number one on the Bridx block that is off .013 when we go to o-ring the decks and machining them to blue print is going to look stupid when the oring groove is off to one side, I am sorry but I am not a hack and I do machine work the right way.

And what do you do about the dowel pins and head bolt holes being off .013 reamachine them Like I said I am not hacking anything up and for what they cost they better not be off .013.

Brodix had no problem taken the block back and machining another block and they are going to pay us back on shipping.

That the differance between you and I don't waste my time or customers money and use a stock 2 bolt main for 800 horse with stock caps. And if a block is off .013 its not right it goes back, I could live with it if it was with in .006 but not .013.

A customer bought 2 blocks from Joe Gibbs Racing and sent them here to deck and rebore and plate hone, One cylinder was off .0015 in either X or Y locations but between both blocks I would say that was dam good. and if my machine was worn out eveything would have been off HMMMM

On the knee mill I beleive you have to probe the blocks manually as its not automatic and I beleive those machine are only a 2 horse machine.

My true CNC machine is gone over by a tech every year and nothing seems to be wrong to date as far as being accurate all the back lash specs are well with in specs on both HAAS CNC machines.

And if my machine were worn out for some odd reason I would keep the fixtures and buy another HAAS machine in a minute as its not a Knee mill and according to the tecks I will never wear that machine as a SBC weighs appox up to 210 pounds and my machine is made to take a 3500 pound part. so I wuld say my machine is a little over kill for what Iam doing with it

Years ago I had a talk with Dick who runs athe machine shop for Dart about some issues we were finding with some of the blocks and his reply was we machine appox. 150 blocks a week and they are roughed machined and its up to the engines builder to make sure its to blue print when its finished machined.

And if some one wanted a truely blue printed block they could do it no problem but it would cost some extra money.


I have no problems with Dart blocks and we just dial them in a little closer the same way the cup teams do with their blocks.

I don't beleive your machine has G code!!!

And if you do get a RMC-40 its light years above the Rottler machines I look at them all when buying a machine and RMC had the best there was al though it was more money it was well worth it, Again all my equipment is payed off and if it was worn out I would just go buy another one as simple as that!!!!

Now I see why you ruined the racing junk forum and and see why you didn't last over on the speedtalk forum as people can see your true colors there by your posting:D:D

[Trmnatr]

Who the hell is Frank???


Number one on the Bridx block that is off .013 when we go to o-ring the decks and machining them to blue print is going to look stupid when the oring groove is off to one side, I am sorry but I am not a hack and I do machine work the right way.

And what do you do about the dowel pins and head bolt holes being off .013 reamachine them Like I said I am not hacking anything up and for what they cost they better not be off .013.

Brodix had no problem taken the block back and machining another block and they are going to pay us back on shipping.

That the differance between you and I don't waste my time or customers money and use a stock 2 bolt main for 800 horse with stock caps. And if a block is off .013 its not right it goes back, I could live with it if it was with in .006 but not .013.

A customer bought 2 blocks from Joe Gibbs Racing and sent them here to deck and rebore and plate hone, One cylinder was off .0015 in either X or Y locations but between both blocks I would say that was dam good. and if my machine was worn out eveything would have been off HMMMM

On the knee mill I beleive you have to probe the blocks manually as its not automatic and I beleive those machine are only a 2 horse machine.

My true CNC machine is gone over by a tech every year and nothing seems to be wrong to date as far as being accurate all the back lash specs are well with in specs on both HAAS CNC machines.

And if my machine were worn out for some odd reason I would keep the fixtures and buy another HAAS machine in a minute as its not a Knee mill and according to the tecks I will never wear that machine as a SBC weighs appox up to 210 pounds and my machine is made to take a 3500 pound part. so I wuld say my machine is a little over kill for what Iam doing with it

Years ago I had a talk with Dick who runs athe machine shop for Dart about some issues we were finding with some of the blocks and his reply was we machine appox. 150 blocks a week and they are roughed machined and its up to the engines builder to make sure its to blue print when its finished machined.

And if some one wanted a truely blue printed block they could do it no problem but it would cost some extra money.


I have no problems with Dart blocks and we just dial them in a little closer the same way the cup teams do with their blocks.

I don't beleive your machine has G code!!!

And if you do get a RMC-40 its light years above the Rottler machines I look at them all when buying a machine and RMC had the best there was al though it was more money it was well worth it, Again all my equipment is payed off and if it was worn out I would just go buy another one as simple as that!!!!

Now I see why you ruined the racing junk forum and and see why you didn't last over on the speedtalk forum as people can see your true colors there by your posting:D:D


Merry Christmas Everybody !

Bill, In my opinion the mains and the main webbing area are the most important on a factory block so how is a 2 bolt main block gonna hold 500hp ? Maybe 450hp without alot of RPM

Tell me this Bill, Which combo below is gonna be easier on the mains?
1) A 383 with Dart XXX heads making 500hp @ 6.000rpm with a 52 pound crank, 600gram rods and 450gram pistons

2) A 306 small block with Dart XXX heads making 500hp @ 7,500rpm with a 52 pound crank, 600gram rods and 450 gram pistons

For sure the answer is #1. When the engine is running the mains are trying to be pushed off the engine, even both are the same HP to compare, Combo #2 is gonna put alot more stress on the mains/bolts as its slinging the weight and shocking the mains alot more than combo #1 thus calling for splayed caps and Hardblok

Merry Christmas Carl :D

[CNC BLOCKS]

You can put all the 4 bolt splayed caps on a block you want and you still have a stock block. DART seen an area that could use some help and has done a killer job with the SHP blocks and the CNC boyz will complain now about machined surfaces post their hmmmm like they have accused Dart of doing something they should of notified the public about before DART done it, or like they have better equipment with precise accuracy and can even now fix this block than DART. What Nonsense. DARTS equipment is better than anything I or they have for final end production that is acceptable. Trust me, it has more to do with the assembly and choices in the internal products and then the final user than something that has splayed caps installed on it. Don't get me wrong, I put spalyed caps on anything I can and push that for any build requiring it. I don't put it on every single block or engine we do.

!

GEEEE Bill after reading this and seeing the probblems I have encountered on the last 3 SHP blocks, I don't send work out the door this bad.

One block the customer will not eccept because it did not clean up at the parting line a 1/2 on each side of the parting line, Nothing I can to do to fix that as I can't make it smalller at the parting line.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y276/CNCBLOCKS/SHPMAINCAPS002.jpg