SHP Block

[d-l racing]

I have purchased your new SHP Block and Pro 1 aluminum heads.
The head bolts are bottoming out in the block before the head can be secured.
I requested from Dart, the correct length bolts.
I was sent back the same bolts.
The block was decked .022.
Do I have to cut the bolts,or stack washers, or use head studs??

[lun40119]

What bolts are you using????? .022 would have probably been bottoming out to begin with. You should be using an ARP number 134-3601 or Stud kit, 134-4001 hex, or 234-4301 12pt.

[Awesome Bill]

That usually does not happen, you are using the supplied washers with the head bolt kit? If this still happens, put the head bolt with washer threw the head, take any slide caliper and slide it down till it touches the top of the bolt and then to the surface of the head. You need to add ¼" to that and slide that into each hole. I usually do not stack any washers. You would be much better off using studs in this can not be rectified! We have used a bottoming tap sometimes, you have to be careful and it should be sharp. If you break it off, you have some time in getting it out. I only recommend this if you are familiar with taping holes with good sharp taps and knowing when to stop.

[d-l racing]

Thank you for the response.
As for the first response, the block being decked .022 is only the thickness of 2 sheets of paper.
The bolts were supplied by Dart for thoes heads and the packages were not marked.

To the 2nd. response the threads are about 1/8 of an inch above the bottom of the hole.
I have stacked double washers on other heads where the studs were too long.
I leaning towards grinding off an 1/8 to 3/16 on the bottom of the bolts.
Which way would you go??
I appreciate the response guys, I love the block and the heads. :-)

[lun40119]

Right, and my response to the 2 sheets of paper is that you would have bottomed out the head bolts, even if it wasn't decked. Make sure you have the right bolts, before you start butchering up some head bolts. If the threads stop before the bottom of the hole in the block, do what Bill is telling you, use a bottoming tap, and finish the threads them.

I checked my head studs in my SHP block before it went to the machine shop, and everything stacked up fine. Could you please measure the under head to end of the threads on the bolt in question. I have another set of ARP 134-3601's out in the shop for my wifes 327. I will measure one for you if you want me to.

[lun40119]

For giggles I was bored and decided to go out and measure one for you. The long bolt measured 3.750 from the bottom of the head to the end of the threads, and the washer measured .120. FWIW.

[CNC BLOCKS]

Boy I hope Bill Cannon you don't jump all over this guy for posting a problem with a Dart product!!!

[Dart Vader]

Boy I hope Bill Cannon you don't jump all over this guy for posting a problem with a Dart product!!!
This is not a neccessary or productive comment. In fact, it's an invitation to hijack this thread with another huge, pointless fight.
No more comments like this please, from either of you...

[Trmnatr]

I have purchased your new SHP Block and Pro 1 aluminum heads.
The head bolts are bottoming out in the block before the head can be secured.
I requested from Dart, the correct length bolts.
I was sent back the same bolts.
The block was decked .022.
Do I have to cut the bolts,or stack washers, or use head studs??

You have one of two problems,,

1) Defective head bolts

2) Defective block

Go to a machine shop or an engine builder and have them look at it, should be less than an hour labor to tell you if its the bolts or the block (if it were me i would take the time to help for $0 but thats just me, my thinking is if i dont help people how can i ever expect help for anything but not all people think like this). You dont hack anything up like that (cutting bolts etc)

Do you have a std ARP bolt or a GM head bolt ? If so just try one of them just to see where your at

Good Luck, Hope all goes well

[69Merc]

As Jake has pointed out, the long bolt from buttom of head to end of thread should measure 3.780 on the long bolt and 3.060 on the shorter bolt.

[BIG CHIEF]

d-l Racing,

Please contact us and we will exchange the bolts for you n/c. We have made a revision to the original bolt kit.

Old Length was 3.250" & 3.960 " New Length 3.060" & 3.780"

The new lengths will work perfect now.

[lun40119]

Glad to hear you guys figured that one out. Probably wouldn't have mattered with the OEM block. Good lookin out Dart Tech.....:D

[Trmnatr]

Glad to hear you guys figured that one out. Probably wouldn't have mattered with the OEM block. Good lookin out Dart Tech.....:D

yes, very good

X2

[want-a-be]

X3....Dart does a good job of handling things like this.

Don

[Awesome Bill]

Ever heard of punish the kid who gets out of line then if the other one messes with him punish him then? Guess you never had kids? Or maybe you just beat em all lollollollollol

[d-l racing]

Big Chief!
I do have the new revised bolts.
My issue is the small bolts at the bottom of the head.When the head is sitting on the block, without the head gasket and the washer, the bolt sticks out of the head .060.
I realize that I will gain .060 with the washer (1/8) and .040 with the head gasket, to give me a total of .100. To me that isn't much of a margin. I will proceed to measure each bolt to insure I have that .060 ,and will continue to build the engine.

I sold my Merlin engine and will now proudly carry the DART banner for my 45 th. year of racing.

[want-a-be]

From the measurements you just gave us,...I might cut a thread or 2 off the bottom. But thats all I'd do.

Don

[lun40119]

Mine is 1.740 from Arp with a .120washer...........just comparing. Still sounds fishy.