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View Full Version : 8.2 Iron Eagle with OEM Ford hyd rollers...


Rook
03-14-2009, 03:07 AM
What modifications need to be done to an Iron Eagle block to allow use of the Ford OEM hydraulic roller set ups?

I found some information on various other message boards and from what I can gather the two holes for the spider need to be drilled in the valley and the lifter bosses need to be ground down... How much needs to come off of the lifter bosses?

If anyone has pics and/or specific instructions for doing the modifications it would be GREATLY appreciated...

PRO 1
03-17-2009, 02:39 PM
Before we came out with the Sportsman version there were people who modified the factory systems to work in the Iron Eagle blocks. It takes a combination of trimming the spider, removing material on the front crossover, drilling and tapping the two hole down bosses, and minor milling on the top of the lifter bosses.

None of it is really complicated, but machine time might cost more than using the drop in link bar hydraulic roller lifters.

If that option is out the best way to do this would be to machine the front oil crossover away, and plug it after it breaks through into the oil galley. This will eliminate modifying the tray which could become flimsy and cause it to not apply enough pressure to hold the dog bones in place.

A good machine shop should be able to do this work, mock up the dog bones to see where it needs to be clearanced, and to modify the front oil crossover.

Thanks and if you have any further questions feel free to email us direct, or call our tech line at 248-362-1188.

Thanks

Awesome Bill
03-20-2009, 11:15 AM
If it is a class rule or something, I would never do that. Use the retro lifter and your done and it will be way better.

Rook
03-24-2009, 03:10 AM
Bill...

Class rules require the use of the stock Ford lifters. I would use the drop in lifters in a second if I could...

Awesome Bill
03-25-2009, 11:10 AM
We have the stock roller lifters making good power well over 7000 rpm, well over. They will do more than you think, just not the best part to have. But they do work.

Brian@ADperformance.com
04-01-2009, 07:29 PM
It's pretty much just fitment ... Drill the spyder hold down and clearance the lifter bores/dogbones/spyder as required. Not difficult but it is time consuming.

Awesome Bill
08-17-2009, 12:04 PM
getting them to spin to 8000 rpm is what is needed to make good power. the fit is exactly what he says up top of me.

1100hp
10-16-2009, 03:01 AM
just for those reading this late in the game. if you use the explorer lifter hold downs no block clearancing is needed. they are made of plastic and hold four at a time instead of two. just modify the metal spider to clear the oil passage.
ps i shift my stock lifter at 8200 and cross the line 8400 and can get a full season on a set of lifters

Awesome Bill
10-17-2009, 12:21 PM
We do the same thing but telling someone other than someone who has to use them its o.k., they think you full of it. Either way, they do what he says and he has used them all season!

Gatlycle73
10-24-2009, 02:51 PM
yep definatly a good thing Chris..
so far the cars we have done the customers are very happy, 2 of them already selling off the other stuff...