[Awesome Bill]

Originally Posted by DartCamaro

Well maybe if you cant figure out how to get it to work thats your problem. I said to take off the rear and put on an anti roll bar. Front sway bars are useless. Depends what shocks you have. I put a set of coil overs on the front of my 2nd gen camaro with limiters....works fine. I drive my car on the street and it does just fine in corners. Who cares if it dives or comes up? Your not trying to cut corners and make fast turns in a drag/street car anyways. You should be taking them at 5mph. And what happens when i take off from a light with my NON Dart 565 that I built long before i worked here? Absolutly nothing. Car stays nice and straight, dont even need to hold the steering wheel. My motor put down 1048hp at 8200rpm and I drive it on the street VERY rarely anyways. And Thought about it, and Im sorry you cant figure this stuff out.

I actually have built and still build street rods and race cars as well as back half a ton of them. To say any sway bar or torsion bar does not help is silly and you do not understand what a stock chassis does and one that is stiffened up with a nice 10 or 14 point roll bar will do.

Shocks do little to nothing with a front chassis with limiters. This totally disproves your statement. With a 1" chassis extension, even with a 3" travel pro stock front end strut, the shocks do nothing after 1" of travel, they are just there to make a smooth landing when the wheels come down and control the ride when the shoots come on. So to say throwing away the sway bar on a stock chassis is silly.

There is nothing to help control engine torque at this point with a stock frame and no roll bar. A dead hook will cause the front left tire to come up as much as 1 foot and we have all seen this even with a roll bar installed. It is caused by the right rear spring being compressed allowing the front left from the torque of the engine to just have its way. Yes in this case a limiter will help but not control engine torque to say without a roll bar stiffening up the chassis.

As far as your car going dead straight and making 1068 hp, that means nothing on the street without a dead hook. I doubt seriously your making that power and doubt seriously your stock chassis could handle it even with a 6 - 8 -10 point roll bar. Managing over 1000 hp is very easy to say, much harder to get it to go dead straight in a dead hook situation, one that I doubt you have done on a track with a video showing us the nice smooth pass! If you have one, please share that with us to show us you did it.

My 68 Camaro actually runs 8.39 @164mph with the plate and 8.17 using just a single stage Fogger and also has been 7.86 with both stages of 550hp and I drive it where I want to. It weighs 3300lbs with me in it and I run a 3.73 gear and a 33" tall tire and have actually pulled 1.26 60 ft times with a perfect straight launch which can be seen by boomboomclickclick postings on yellow bullet of a real car. You may not know that I actually won the First 8.50 event @ the 2008 Shakedown with 6 perfect runs and that is with only 1040hp. This is a real street car with no anti roll bars, does have a good cage and chains for front end limiters set a 1" off travel to keep the front tires a nice 1 foot off the ground all the way to the 100ft mark. So how fast and heavy is your car? To say I can't figure it out is actually an insult on what I actually do @ the track. I fix cars @ the track all the time with the anti roll bars that have been improperly installed. The first thing I do is unhook them and set the chassis up without it and tell them to go run it. Very seldom does it come back for an adjustment.

If you want to see my car actually running a 8.53 on the brakes, take a look on my web site in the media section. I run that car exclusively in the 8.50 legal street class. I invite you to come down and sign up the first Saturday of every month. This way you can get a feel for what 1068 hp should be doing and how it should look first hand in a 3300 or so lb street car. TAGGED.

With any race car street car set up, there are many ways to skin a cat. I have seen some stuff with NO SHOCKS on the front end work beautiful. They are only there to pick the wheels up and keep the springs in the car when the car is on the bumper. So shocks play little to know play in these cases. In a prostock, the rear shocks are critical but the front do little because of the limiters. Once you learn engine torque and pinion torque are 2 totally different things to deal with, you will begin to learn how to properly set up a chassis. Here is the thing, do it without a anti roll bar and you know what your doing for sure. An anti-roll bar is a band-aid and is used by most to correct a problem they can not figure out with it. Everyone ask me how my car works as well as it does and not have the anti-roll bar. Think about the name of the device "ANTI-ROLL BAR" what does "roll" have to do with the bar? It should be anit-pinion torque steer bar or anti toque bar or rear level bar, the mere mention of any type of roll only come from the sway bar, this kept body roll intact better when cornering. The anti roll bar is just adjustable and has been upgraded to fix a problem. I understand well what goes on with a chassis so you don't have to apologize for me not understanding. I have forgotten more that most know on chassis. For that I don't apologize, I just offer understanding. Hope this helps for most to read the Alston book on chassis, the cause and effects.