[Awesome Bill]

most engines are over cammed anyway!

[lun40119]

The cam I am having done is shorter with more lift. And a lil wider.

[Awesome Bill]

sounds better already.

[lun40119]

Here is another pic that I found online. This is at the hit........bout two feet later it runs over itself, and unloads and spins. Ill get it...........but just wanted to give you an idea of what I am working with. This is with 36° timing on pump gas.

[Awesome Bill]

Originally Posted by lun40119

Here is another pic that I found online. This is at the hit........bout two feet later it runs over itself, and unloads and spins. Ill get it...........but just wanted to give you an idea of what I am working with. This is with 36° timing on pump gas.

Classic killing the side wall application. Just took a quick read threw all the post and Jake if your running this car without a roll bar, your doing very well. I never knew this was a real stock chassis. Taking a quick look and you can see the right rear side wall tire is being killed. This can easily be fixed with air pressure or preload of the upper right rear bar if they are adjustable. If you take a look at the right rear tire, its almost round. Your first 0-20 feet are with the left rear tire. Get that roll bar and stiffen up the chassis and most times the car will kept the rear tires planted longer and more evenly.

[lun40119]

Bill I think part of the problem with that pic is I was running a clutch style trac loc posi in my Dana. I have got a Strange 35 spline spool in there now. The trac loc was broken. Not sure if that was the problem, but the next burnout started with two wheels, and finished as one

I did finally get the balls to put a cage in the car, that is welded to the frame. I only drove it on the street with the cage, never made it to the track, but it stiffened up the frame 10 fold. You are thinking I should put an anti-roll bar in the car?

[Awesome Bill]

It looks like from the picture, the left rear tire was doing everything proven your point with the broken differential. With the roll bar, if you put an anti roll bar on you will have deadly consistent pressure on both axles no matter what power you through @ it.

But, you already have one with the sway bar, they do almost the exact same thing. I use the biggest one front and rear for perfect launches. A lot of people pull the sway bar off the front thinking it will help, it don't, it hurts. When I had my 68 BBC 468 Chevelle, I could drag the bumper and it was fun. I took the front and rear sway bar off and the car would not leave. It lifted the front left wheel as the right rear killed the spring and the car rolled over. Put everything back on and right back to dragging the bumper. Posi traction units @ best might be able to work with a good amount of power. Either way you will see a big difference in the 60 foot with both tires getting it done.

I have always wanted to put a 66 or 67 together just not got around to it. Almost bought one to play with and it did not work out. I got to many toys to play with as it is.

[DartCamaro]

Best thing you can possibly do to help your or any car launch is to pull the front and rear sway bars off. Tune you front by adjusting shock (or if you have coil overs) and using suspension limiters in the front is a must if its lifting the tires off the ground. Pull the rear sway bar off and install an anti-roll bar. Tune the rear suspension with zero preload on the anti-roll bar, and then start slowly adding pressure after you get it hooking to keep the car from body rolling. Lastly... like i said about tuning the front suspension, if the front is completely out of wack, you rear sus. probably wont work worth a crap. I can cut 1.16 60ft on a small tire on a car i can drive on the street occasionally ( 565 BBC with 2 kits)

[want-a-be]

IMO a sway bar and a torsion bar are pretty much the same. One is more adjustable then the other of course. But even that can be gotten around. They both work almost exactly like the other.

I've even used them in the circle track scene on the front end of a street stock car. That guy flat out refuses to race without it now.

Don

[DartCamaro]

[QUOTE=want-a-be;11275]IMO a sway bar and a torsion bar are pretty much the same. One is more adjustable then the other of course. But even that can be gotten around. They both work almost exactly like the other.

I've even used them in the circle track scene on the front end of a street stock car. That guy flat out refuses to race without it now.

Don[/QUOT

But a sway bar or a torsion bar are still not an Anti-roll bar. An anti-roll bar's sole purpose is to preload and prevent body roll without limiting the cars suspension travel. If you take off the front sway bar and use a set of front end limiters the car will probably 60ft and 330ft faster because the front end will not be pointed north, yet the car will still leave straight.