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Old 11-01-2009, 08:51 PM   #1
slowstang
 
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Default max flow from pro1 230 sbc heads

whats the most flow and hp you have seen from a sbc pro1 230 heads and who did the work? i have a set that top out at 317 at .700 lift ,but im looking for more instead of going to 18 degree heads
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Old 11-03-2009, 10:10 PM   #2
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You cant race your flowbench.......or a dyno for that matter. Ask me how I know?
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Old 11-15-2009, 03:23 PM   #3
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Without putting a 2.125 or even a 2.10 valve in the head, your done. Most likely it has a 2.080. Rons is very good with these as I also. You can race a dyno if you know what your doing. Any power gain you get with a dyno over what you had will add to the e.t. unless your stupid and don't use the combination correctly. I have seen more power run slower, but as I said, they were pretty stupid.
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Old 12-09-2009, 12:35 AM   #4
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You could send them to Mikes Porting service. He reworked a set for my brother a few months ago for a 434cid. They came back flowing 329 @800 with the manifold attached and a 4.155" fixture. this was with a 2.08" intake valve. We will be testing this engine on our dyno in a few months and are targeting 750-760HP.
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Old 12-09-2009, 01:17 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Awesome Bill View Post
Without putting a 2.125 or even a 2.10 valve in the head, your done. Most likely it has a 2.080. Rons is very good with these as I also. You can race a dyno if you know what your doing. Any power gain you get with a dyno over what you had will add to the e.t. unless your stupid and don't use the combination correctly. I have seen more power run slower, but as I said, they were pretty stupid.
I would like to see you sitting on your dyno, running down the track, flames out the pipes with the fuel tank and lines, and software cables dragging behind you..........my point was it doesn't matter what it makes on the dyno if you can't make it work at the track
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Old 12-09-2009, 01:25 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lun40119 View Post
my point was it doesn't matter what it makes on the dyno if you can't make it work at the track
Are you feeling ok Jake? Sounds close to a point that I tried to make.....

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Old 12-09-2009, 03:13 AM   #7
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well im just looking to see what the heads can do when they are maxed out,i realize it is cheaper to do 18 or 15 degree heads and be done but for certain reasons we have to run 23 degree heads
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Old 12-09-2009, 01:51 PM   #8
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I am talking about two different things. You made the point that dyno's were useless. I use it to tell me if I am making changes for the better, not for the magic number. I know what the engine makes for power, and if I can't get the car to run that number on the track it means that I have some more chassis work, or that I am loosing power somewhere. Sorry for the confusion.
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Old 12-09-2009, 01:52 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowstang View Post
well im just looking to see what the heads can do when they are maxed out,i realize it is cheaper to do 18 or 15 degree heads and be done but for certain reasons we have to run 23 degree heads
I am in the process of dumping buttloads of cash doing it over, so if I could start over I would say....................................Do the 18 degree head, and don't even think of using a 230 head. At the least, check with Kev, but I think that they were redoing the 220 raised runner head. Try that. Good luck fella.
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Old 12-09-2009, 04:25 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lun40119 View Post
I am talking about two different things. You made the point that dyno's were useless. I use it to tell me if I am making changes for the better, not for the magic number. I know what the engine makes for power, and if I can't get the car to run that number on the track it means that I have some more chassis work, or that I am loosing power somewhere. Sorry for the confusion.
Actually that was the point that I was trying to make with my comments, but it must have not come off that way. The tires that IMCA makes you use are only 8" wide and have a terrible rubber compound. Trying to hook up 600+ HP (solid flat tappet cam rule) on a dry slick track is a hard thing to do. It comes down to how well you can tune the chassis to the track conditions as they change from week to week. Dyno's are a good tuning tool to be able to use to find gains and losses as you make changes to the engine. This I understand, but if you don't have a driver, gear, engine, and chassis that works with each other you are going to be out to lunch. All to often most of the racing majority will buy a bad boy dyno engine from so and so thinking that they are going to leave everyone in the dust. That is why I said you can't race your dyno, not that they are unimportant and should not be used. Sorry for the mis-understanding.

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